Unspoken. Chloé SS27

There was something beautifully unspoken about Chemena Kamali’s latest collection for Chloé. On one hand, it played with notions of girlish innocence – all that white broderie anglaise – but there was also a certain fetishistic undercurrent. The PVC trenches were kind of kinky, giving the lineup a daring quality that kept it from feeling too straightforward.

Kamali looked back at her own past at Chloé, particularly the spring 2002 collection she worked on during Phoebe Philo’s tenure. Hence the memorable openwork details, the suits with a certain powerful stance to them (but never too masculine), finished with one big statement necklace, and that particular taste for the risqué that the maison embodied at the time – very Paris-meets-London. But this wasn’t nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake. Looking at the collection, all you could see was a woman who feels free.

ED’s SELECTION:


Chloé Lace-trimmed Crinkled Silk-satin Top



Chloé Junie Leather-trimmed Tpu Mules



Chloé Gayia Aviator-style Tortoiseshell Acetate Sunglasses



Chloé Paddington Python-effect Locket-detail Shoulder Bag



Chloé Wool-crepe Straight-leg Pants



Chloé Suzie Ruched Floral-print Satin Sandals

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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That Girl. Chloé Resort 2027

For her resort 2027 collection for Chloé, Chemena Kamali turned to the archives – but not those of Gaby Aghion or Karl Lagerfeld. Instead, she looked to the late 1990s, when Stella McCartney arrived at the house with an unprecedented sense of youthful confidence. Back then, the British designer transformed Chloé into the go-to destination for women seeking a great Savile Row–esque suit that could just as easily be thrown over a frivolous lingerie top. The echoes of that masculine-feminine flirtation are back, and it’s hard not to fall for the lacey dresses, satin jackets, and ballet skirts, which never veer into saccharine territory because they’re grounded by washed denim, robust furs, vintage-inspired hardware, and sharp, down-to-business tailoring. Kamali’s work carries a natural feminine energy that’s perfectly in tune with Chloé’s enduring charm, and it makes you want to be that girl – no matter the season.

GET THE LOOK:


Chloé High-rise Straight-leg Jeans



Chloé Lace-trimmed Crinkled Silk-satin Top



Chloé Shearling-lined Quilted Shell Coat



Chloé Lola Studded Leather Platform Pumps



Chloé Paddington Python-effect Locket-detail Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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New Frontiers. Chloé AW26

At Chloé, Chemena Kamali delivered her best – and perhaps most daring – collection to date. The designer, who captured the hearts of women around the world with her revival of bohemian spirit, has now tweaked her Chloé girl, taking her somewhere less expected. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Chloé Eve Suede Over-the-knee Boots



Chloé Paneled Leather Jacket



Chloé Tiered Organic Silk-mousseline Maxi Skirt



Chloé Paddington Embellished Leather Tote



Chloé Gathered Tie-detailed Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Mini Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Innocence. Chloé Pre-Fall 2026

There’s just something about Chemena Kamali’s Chloé girl that never grows tiresome. Yes, she has a fixation on the past – but it’s a charming one. For pre-fall 2026 – shot by Mark Kean, who has an incredible way of capturing blown-out hair and a certain innocence in his subjects – Kamali proposes a strikingly chic formula: a basic henley elevated by a draped pencil skirt and a leather basque belt. Easy, flirty, fun. Elsewhere, a ruffled blouse – modeled after the Chloé dress Karl Lagerfeld designed for Paloma Picasso’s wedding – is dressed down with stretch-velvet stirrup pants, creating a look that feels Parisian in a postcard way, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

Kamali is only approaching her third year at Chloé, yet it feels as though she’s been thriving there for an era (she did, after all, work at the house under Phoebe Philo’s helm in the early 2000s, so this tracks). She has rebuilt the brand into a sanctuary of unpretentious, witty femininity, with each collection reading as a natural continuation of the last. Kamali herself notes, “what I get as feedback is that you can mix the collections quite well – pieces from the first show with last season’s pre-collection, say.” This isn’t a PR line; it’s a fact easily observed on the streets of Paris.

ED’s SELECTION:


Chloé Tiered Organic Silk-mousseline Maxi Skirt



Chloé Eve Suede Over-the-knee Boots



Chloé Embellished Cotton-velvet Jacket



Chloé Gathered Tie-detailed Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Mini Dress



Chloé Wool-crepe Straight-leg Pants



Chloé Jeanette Studded Platform Clogs

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Quirky. Chloé SS26

Although Chemena Kamali drew inspiration from Gaby Aghion’s (Chloé’s founder) archives from the 1950s and ’60s, she managed to reinterpret the mini dresses with bubbly, couture-like shapes in a contemporary, quirky-but-chic way. At first, I wasn’t sure about the fullness of some of the floral bows and drapes – often rendered in acidic colourways and styled with contrasting leggings – but there’s something undeniably fascinating about the oddness of this silhouette. I’m also obsessed with the distinctly 1980s make-up moment: the flashy, bold pink lipstick that creates a cool tension against the “safe” beiges of the shoulder-padded trench coats. Add to that the PVC sandals and Vanessa Beecroft’s photographic lens at the show, and you get a fresh, not so obvious vision of the Chloé-by-Chemena girl – less lace-y and Sienna Miller-esque than before.

ED’s SELECTION:

Chloé Paddington Embellished Leather Tote


Chloé Gathered Cotton-dupioni Jacket


Chloé Floral-brocade Mini Skirt


Chloé Misty Laser-cut Leather Ballet Flats


Chloé Ribbed Cotton Top


Chloé High-rise Wide-leg Jeans

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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