For a few seasons, Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg‘s collections were New York fashion week’s escape to a cosmic-glam odyssey. With that niche, in fact, Area became a local trend-setter, that gets quickly copied by not only the up-and-coming labels, but the big players. This season, the designers took a more down-to-earth approach, but that doesn’t mean the collection was less disctinct to the brand’s identity. With more go-to pieces in offer, like adorably ruffled blazers or striped knits, Area smartly aims at the retailers. But the ‘she’s so fetch’ attitude is present, as usual – just note the leopard spots print, patchworked on a coat or used for slim pants. Crystal trimmings on the dresses and skirts are dramatically chic, wherever you are. Faux-fur appeared in all the fun places as well, while the intriguingly shaped hats brought a de luxe cowboy feel (think Madonna in Music video-clip). Some say that New York is short of young talent. Well, look at Area and better reconsider what you’ve said.
My love for Haider Ackermann is indescribable, really. His aesthetic, his style, his sensibility for colours and textures. The autumn-winter 2018 collection rotated somewhere around Moroccan souks and Japanese bath houses, at least this is how I’ve perceived it. Oriental, but not direct. Whether Ackermann’s man is a nearly mythical lifetime voyager or a guy from Paris wearing his velvet varsity jacket and high-waisted satin trackpants on the daily basis, I have the same feeling every season after seeing the designer’s show: I want to be, or at least look, like this man. Obsessed.
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran, season after season, find a way to make their truly timeless clothes feel exciting. Maybe this season it’s all thanks to the pink turtleneck the models wore under russet-brown cardigans and coats? That was a glimpse of colour that doesn’t affiliate with Lemaire, but surprisingly looked great. The brand is known for its sense (and love) for artistry. A designers’ friend contributed the muted paisley and feather-overlay marble prints used in outerwear, shirting, mohair knits and pants. Of course, for more classical Lemaire devotees, there are the signature, relaxed fits and silhouettes in ecru, black or grey (can I ask for that loosely fitted suit, please?). As always, Lemaire wins my heart.
With empty champagne bottles already in the bin and batteries (hopefully) recharged, here we are in 2018! And the first post of the year goes to Anthony Vaccarello‘s resort 2018 collection for Saint Laurent. The look-book, starring Lexi Boling and Hiandra Martinez, is a mix of all those New Year feels. From one side, it’s about glamorous, party dresses and boots covered with feathers. But from the other, it’s just the right amount of laid-back chic: denim, suede and over-sized fur coats. Vaccarello, who does contemporary Yves Saint Laurent with grace, knows that every great party demands a day, or two, of naps and looking ‘casual’.