Men’s / Voyager. Haider Ackermann AW18

January 19, 2018January 19, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

My love for Haider Ackermann is indescribable, really. His aesthetic, his style, his sensibility for colours and textures. The autumn-winter 2018 collection rotated somewhere around Moroccan souks and Japanese bath houses, at least this is how I’ve perceived it. Oriental, but not direct. Whether Ackermann’s man is a nearly mythical lifetime voyager or a guy from Paris wearing his velvet varsity jacket and high-waisted satin trackpants on the daily basis, I have the same feeling every season after seeing the designer’s show: I want to be, or at least look, like this man. Obsessed.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Adored Fits. Lemaire AW18

January 18, 2018January 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran, season after season, find a way to make their truly timeless clothes feel exciting. Maybe this season it’s all thanks to the pink turtleneck the models wore under russet-brown cardigans and coats? That was a glimpse of colour that doesn’t affiliate with Lemaire, but surprisingly looked great. The brand is known for its sense (and love) for artistry. A designers’ friend contributed the muted paisley and feather-overlay marble prints used in outerwear, shirting, mohair knits and pants. Of course, for more classical Lemaire devotees, there are the signature, relaxed fits and silhouettes in ecru, black or grey (can I ask for that loosely fitted suit, please?). As always, Lemaire wins my heart.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Laid Back. Saint Laurent Resort 2018

January 2, 2018March 2, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

With empty champagne bottles already in the bin and batteries (hopefully) recharged, here we are in 2018! And the first post of the year goes to Anthony Vaccarello‘s resort 2018 collection for Saint Laurent. The look-book, starring Lexi Boling and Hiandra Martinez, is a mix of all those New Year feels. From one side, it’s about glamorous, party dresses and boots covered with feathers. But from the other, it’s just the right amount of laid-back chic: denim, suede and over-sized fur coats. Vaccarello, who does contemporary Yves Saint Laurent with grace, knows that every great party demands a day, or two, of naps and looking ‘casual’.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Paris. Sonia Rykiel Pre-Fall 2018

December 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

I’ve been quite absent for the last week, because of a really nasty flu – but this doesn’t mean I wasn’t peeking at the splash of pre-fall collections. Well, that already seems like a dull season, to be honest. But one label really did caught my eye.

Julie de Libran‘s take on Sonia Rykiel has fluctuating results – sometimes, her collections can be described as just ‘basic’, with no depth or any braver concept. However, as in case of pre-fall 2018, there are the right shots. “It’s just a sweater, a skirt, and a good boot,” she might have said modestly. Still, those look more than ‘just good’. And how Parisian (sorry for the cliché, but it’s a fact!). The leather coat-dress in ecru is gorgeous, just like the semi-sheer jacquard gowns in red and navy. Seems like a perfect New Year’s Eve go-to wardrobe, if only it came early enough to the stores… After more than three years of creative direction, it feels that de Libran and Rykiel brand built a strong bond. The designer revealed that she recently became a shareholder and partner in Sonia Rykiel. “I’m part of the family now”. With such great collections coming, Julie proves she succesfully continues the legacy of the late, Left Bank Parisienne.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Hamburg. Chanel Pre-Fall 2018

December 7, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

I adore Chanel‘s Métiers d’Art shows (which work as pre-falls) for the fact they really are about the clothes, not some temporary venues built in the Parisian Grand Palais. Well, the place of yesterday’s fashion show was more than important for Karl Lagerfeld – it was Hamburg, a port city in Germany which happens to be the designer’s birthplace. The building, where the show was staged – futuristic Herzog & de Meuron Elbephilharmonie – was a perfect backdrop for those refined, beautiful clothes. That certain kind of neat elegance, accompanied by classical orchestral music, felt very German. Maison Michel–made nautical tweed caps and navy Guernsey knits nicely matched the marine nature of Hamburg, which up to now was out of the fashion world’s radar. Seems like a perfect wardrobe for now – even though it hits the store late summer…