Pastel Velvet Wonderland. Rochas AW16

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Alessandro Dell’AcQua‘s woman and his Rochas collection is pure, pure sweetness for the eye. The wide range of pastel colours, from pink to green, looked feminine and non-chalant when styled with contrasting ankle socks. Floral-embroidered slip dresses looked chic and not so banal with the lace shirts under. Also, this collection was an ode to velvet, Dell AcQua’s current obsession – unexpectedly, it looked extremely soft and frivolous, when worn with green fur coats and the season’s must-have high platform pumps. I adore this collection – and I can openly confess that it’s my favourite Rochas outing delivered by Alessandro to date (and already two years passed from his appointment)!

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Mankind Chic. Dries Van Noten AW16

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Let Dries Van Noten teach what’s the definition of chic. It’s about decadence. Aristocratic suits, piqué shirts, gold lamé shoes, leopard-spot pantalons and the radiating soigné manner surrounding the smoky-eyed women. It’s a story reviving Marchesa Luisa Casati, the woman with her iconic pet-cheetahs obsession and a memorable collection of pearl necklaces. “She pushed decadence as a lifestyle, but was never happy” – indeed, the collection was shrounded in melancholic mystery. The masculine coats, celebrating Casati’s lover Gabriele D’Annunzio, and white shirts tucked in tweed pants were all about Dries’ imaginary woman, who shares her man’s wardrobe and reads, maybe, books about existence. The acid-green dress, worn by the one and only Molly Bair, had a sharp V-cut – quite unusual to see at Van Noten, who is rather into boyish elegance. But still, it felt infinitely him. From the very Parisian, velvet gowns to sexy pajamas the clients of the label have dozens of reason to shop here next season – and the fans, like me, will surely put this collection on the “autumn-winter 2016 favourites” list.

Bravo, Dries.

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Knit Chic. Bottega Veneta AW16

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Tomas Maier knows how to make the audience love his discreet, calm Bottega Veneta collections – sending out Jamie Bochert in a total-black look made up of a coat, fringed scarf, sleek flares and silver-polished pumps effortlessly becomes one of the season’s best looks. The next looks were nearly as good as the opening – new Italian machinery industry has brought a revolution in knitting, and that’s visible in these lady-like skirts, pants and coats. The collection had a bit of non-chalance, too – the masculine smoking was unbuttoned, to expose a black bra which conveyed the good, clubbing 70’s. Refined chic, based on your grandma’s tweed coat, necklaces and knitted tops, has never felt so up to date as now, at Bottega.

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Glory Box. Victoria Beckham AW16

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Victoria Beckham‘s creative vision for her brand seems to evolve – just like her view on femininity. The autumn-winter 2016 collection was all about a very lady-like, yet contemporary woman – meaning a downtown personality in a loosely sculpted midi dress, wearing simple, patent-leather flats. Seems to be trivial – but it looks so effective, when worn with a graceful red lipstick. Also, it feels like Beckham is having a moment with her well-tailored coats. One is masculine and with double buttons, while the second one is all about a baggy, slightly slouchy look. However, both look like the must-have, seasonless statements of the designer’s winter outing. It’s getting better and better with every season, Victoria.

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Men’s – Back to Black. Bottega Veneta AW16

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Tomas Maier, the creative director of Bottega Veneta, takes his man (and woman) to the darker side this season. But the colour of black had its function – Maier made it the leading colour of the show in order to present a contrast. “It’s about the silhouette. I felt it needed change. All the sportswear-inspired elements that we have been putting in: It’s time to move on. It’s becoming a trend, lots of people are doing that, I don’t need to do it forever.” Rather than reintepreting de luxe sweatpants, the collection was focused on the way the athletic, yet elegant clothes look on the body of both men and women. For guys, Bottega Veneta channeled a loose-fit chic, while girls looked soigné in their calfskin coats and relaxed skirts. Even though this collection is not a ground-breaking one, it feels like one of the best menswear outings by the designer up to date.

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