Christophe Lemaire‘s SS16 for guys is not really a collection, but a full wardrobe with all must-have essentials. Black tank-tops? Check. Beige coats? Check. White shirts? Check. With a minimal splash of pistachio green there and there, Lemaire‘s summer offering is not about introducing new trends but rather discusses whether your casual, everyday wardrobe is ready on the go. And this makes the collection unruffled and tranquil, without much spark in it.
The Colombian designer and one of Antwerp’s brightest stars, Haider Ackermann, does this again. There is something unexplainable about his AW15 collection. Ackermann’s sensitivity with drape and textures is shown through every collection – but this time, he outdid himself. The variety of tweeds, flannels, felts, leathers and silks was so big and unexpectadely, looked great styled up together. The pirate jackets were all about bold checks and animal prints while the floor-sweeping skirts and coats created an ethereal atmosphere of Angelina Jolie in the Disney movie, Maleficent. Also, notice the details on the jackets – white stitches and safety spins were strong references to the lingering love of punk and rock & roll. These are modern clothes for women who love to spice up their dandy style. What can I say more? This slightly chaotic, decadent collection from AW15 Paris Fashion Week is the one I truly love the most.
I used to think that I am the only one, who yawns when sees Elie Saab’s boring evening gowns. Many designer who do evening-wear think that an excessive amount of Swarovski and flesh-exposing-cuts is just it. But thankfully, Rosie Assoulin is the woman to say a loud “NO” to that. The New York-based designer creates dresses which are mostly categorised as “evenining” ones, but surprisingly look as good with white sneakers as with heels. By looking at the latest, AW15 collection by Rosie, it’s easy to conclude, that these simply cut, boldly-coloured dresses look at their best with sweatpants and yes, even with hoodies. Her clothes are like cameleons – they fit into nearly each occasion. The stand-out pieces are definitely the signature cropped tops worn over white shirts, corduroy pants and of course, the dreamy maxi-gowns. Somehow, with Assoulin, the statement “wear the dream” becomes real.
“A vision of France from a stranger who thinks France is not that bad.” Karl Lagerfeld has grown increasingly tired of the cynical negativity, much of it from the French themselves. So, creating a Brasserie Gabrielle as a venue for Chanel’s AW15 show was the right idea – what cheers up a French as much as a good lunch with red wine? Well, only a new Chanel bag. But the space was too vast to communicate the charm of a real brasserie in Paris, even those as big as Balzar which is Lagerfeld’s favourite. Actually, it’s the first time when the usual, fabulously great concept for a Chanel show stumbled. But still, it felt nice.
If talking of the clothes, you know me. When there are 98 Chanel looks in one Chanel collection, I easily get bored. Why? Because they are all mostly the same. Boucle, tartan check, CC logo, pearls… all those Chanelised codes seem to sink in this big amount of clothes. And I always feel sad that quantity wins over the quality at Chanel shows. But the thing that surprised me were the shoes – or rather, one pair of shoes. Each model had the same pair of shoes! The classical, beige Coco pumps. I liked that. After all those ugly tweed sneakers and crystalized heels, a simple pair of beige pumps feels like a healthy detox.
Dries Van Noten’s collections always feature some oriental motifs and embroideries. This time, he brought on Tibetan embelishments, Chinese satin and Burmese metal jewellery. The coats covered with flickering mirrors, crystals and other appliques looked so gorgeous. Just like the red sweater cover with knitted prints. There is an air of the nomad about a Van Noten collection. It’s likely something to do with the historical past in Antwerp, Belgium, once a merchant hub of the world, from where Dries started his career. The layering is on master level – khaki bermuda shorts worn over tailored pants. Tank top on a printed shirt. This ethnic mood working on me.
Design & Culture by Ed 