Men’s – Steady. Lemaire AW15

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Christophe Lemaire changed the name of his own, eponymous label, into LEMAIRE. What does it mean? He wants it to be even more descreet and less personalized. “We thought it was time to clarify and reboot, to give it a family name which reflects that we are very much a design duo,” he said. Sarah Tran, his partner, added: “It’s also to say that what we do is about teamwork—people working for a name, yes, but a less personified one than before.” In his AW15 collection, the men, as usually, looked steady and ready for daily life. Comfortable parkas, loosely tailored trousers and over-sized capes were mixed with a slight body exposure. Mostly, the models didn’t wear shirts under their casual blazers. “It is always about the idea of showing a man who is steady,” he said. Fall 2015’s articulation of that Mr. Reliable was based on Alexandre, the amorous protagonist played by Jean-Pierre Léaud in La Maman et la Putain. 

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Christophe Lemaire Menswear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

Never Gonna Love Again. Lanvin Pre-Fall’15

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Lanvin’s pre-fall is so into Lykke Li’s I Never Learn album for me. The song Never Gonna Love Again matches perfectly Mica Arganaraz and Jamie Bochert in this gorgeous  look-book. So dramatic, so chic, so elusive… over-sized suits, loafers, fluffy furs, maxi dresses and beautiful floral embroidery – and everything fulfilled with a dose of mysterious fog. Alber Elbaz just keeps his style. Non-chalant, but utterly dandy with a feminine twist. Baby can you hear the rain fall on me, never gonna love again, baby can you hear my heart cry tonight, I can’t keep running away, this time I can’t keep running away ’cause I’m never gonna love again.

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So French. Chloe Pre-Fall’15

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For pre-fall, Chloe’s Clare Waight Keller felt the attitude of freedom, continuing SS15’s main theme. Somewhere between David Bowie and Kate Bush scene craziness and Jane Birkin’s fashion for bow shirts, Clare outstood herself. This collection was basically a master-piece. Pony hair A-skirts, python leather bags, brown palette capes, tweed blazers and “whatever” trousers are just few of my favourites. The models, kept in very Parisian styling, looked casual but stylish and strong. And then very sexy butterfly wings —and that sensuality operated throughout the collection as a whole. Chloé is usually associated with a kind of virginal, flirty look, but Waight Keller chucked it this time—some of these clothes were intensely womanly, others rather boyish, and a good deal of them were borderline feral. So, whether Clare thought of androgynous Bowie or feminine Birkin- this clash works on me.

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