Vetements

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Demna Gvasalia, the alum of Maison Martin Margiela, presented his second season of Vetements, a new, eponymous label. And the collection he and his mates produced for their first-ever show made a solid case for spontaneous style. A game with volumes lenghts was the big thing. This elusive, slightly eerie mood of Margiela was also all around the clothes… here is my favourite look from the SS15 show. I don’t know why, but these sleeves and shoes and the non-chalant belt really hit me during the Parisian fashion week.

The Sneaker

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Boom-boom, this the IT shoe of Resort. Phoebe Philo knows how to play fashion with comfortable mode, creating the Celine sneakers. The third season, already! First, we had them with LOVE LIFE signs, then in melange texture and now in a cool, artistic mood… These are the shoes you will definitely wear the whole year.

Voyager. Celine Resort 2015

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Phoebe Philo is the woman designing for women. She knows best what they need and when they need. For the highly anticipated Resort 2015, Philo brought us totally new volumes and lengths- floor sweeping knitted dresses, voluminous capes and comfortable, over-sized tank tops. That’s a minimalist heaven with a twist of voyage souvenirs. Ethnic fabrics, pon-pons, fringes and the “Soft Ballerinas” were the factors that made think Cote d’Azur, Myanmar and a bit of New York’s attitude. But all of that bound with the Parisian ribbon of slight nonchalance. As you may see, the collection brings a lot of new features to Celine: waist-bags (LOVE!), bold colours and… yes, the first ever Resort campaign. With Daria Werbowy, of course. Is there something better than all of that? Well… only to touch and feel the clothes in person!

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Understated Luxury. Hermes SS15

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That was the last season of Christophe Lemaire at Hermes- and surely, it really was worth an applause. The understated luxury, traveler chic and the elegant style is everything that Lemaire achieved at Hermes and continues in his own, name-sake, brand. Cream and white layers in alligator printed suede, oversized Hermès prints blown up on belted in scarf dresses and loose silken separates in dusky pink and golden yellow all summed up the sense of freeing ease that Lemaire imbued on the house. These clothes don’t need bells and whistles and neither does the house when you have an arsenal of fine fabrications. But who is next at Hermes? It’s Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, which comes to the house with experience from The Row and Celine. In other words, it’s surely going to be a match in heaven. However I will still miss Christophe Lemaire at this French, super strong house.

By the way… it’s the last “reviewed” collection from SS15 by me. This season was beautiful. Can’t wait what the designers will show in the next half of the year!

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Bad Girls. Miu Miu SS15

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 The 50’s bad girls went down the runway at Miu Miu SS15 show… with their eyebrows to match. cropped tops, bustiers, checks, pencil skirts, pastel coats and kitten heels- those are the Miu Miu girl attributes. The silhouette was Miuccia’s well-versed version of the housecoat, the pencil skirt and the ruffled prettiness up on top. Miuccia had them trussed up in finery – 18th century style floral silk and cloqué, counter balanced with fraying wool check and murky shades of leather. Lady goes vamp. Tarts and vicars. Runaway girls. They don’t give a damn about their ex boyfriend. They keep up together and get high together, but in style and chic.

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