Junior Suite. Sonia Rykiel SS15

October 3, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

“My mother wore it a lot, so this felt like coming back to her closet a little bit,” said Julie de Libran. “There are so many codes, and there’s such a nice heritage, which I’m lucky to be able to take from and reinvent, to kind of close the archive, and just go by my selective memory.” I love this kind of fresh perspective on the brand. The designer of Sonia Rykiel simply must be French! The collection, presented in the SR Saint-Germain store was chic, sexy and pretty much basic. It was a good starting point, which hopefully will be developed in the upcoming seasons. And by the way, Gigi Hadid stole the show…

Moody Ruffles. Ellery SS15

October 1, 2014January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Aussie girl, Kym Ellery, does sculptural beauty this time in Paris. The collection is so, so breath-taking. It has so much movement, flair, boldness… the materials used are so gorgeous, that the amazing over-sized ribbons look super effortless and wearable. Ellery always masters best the fun with fabrics- in their Paris-based studio, the real magic happens, making their collection better and better each season. Ellery had two main emphases: creating a lean, attenuated silhouette, and elaborating it with rich textures. The opening look established the theme: a pair of extra-long tweed trousers topped with a mesh undershirt and matching tweed singlet. The singlet had a buoyant flare, but this was a more measured take on the sculptural volumes Ellery has explored in the past. The tailoring was a highlight—lots of great pants—and the shirting, too, done in heavy-duty cottons with a touch of sheen. Ellery also scored with her long, almost monastic tank dresses, which kicked out under the hip. Serene but with a vibrant atmosphere in the air.

Silk Fragility. Haider Ackermann SS15

September 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

As usual, Haider. You steal the spotlight of Parisian Fashion Week, without having a lot of effort. The summer created by Haider Ackermann is all about flesh-tone silks, backless knitwear and come-undone tailorings. Over-sized sweaters, cool vests, beautiful, blush pink trousers and magical, lilac capes- it all felt like a delicate, breezy summer in Paris. Stiff glossy leather belts orbited skin-tone satin tops and sharp, shoulder-skimming playsuits, while gathered chiffon blouses – slashed to the navel, were loosely tucked into low-slung trousers complete with sporty, racing stripes. Fans of the label’s more androgynous cuts will no doubt be inspired by the sleeveless crepe jackets, floor-length trench-coats and waistcoat tops. Haider Ackermann always ends up on my Parisian favourites. And this dreamy, ethereal surely classifies as one of the most wearable creations yet bt Ackermann. In love with the master-layering as much as in the whole collection. J’adore!

Memories. Maison Martin Margiela SS15

September 28, 2014September 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wet. The models were literally wet during the Maison Martin Margiela show. What else felt “wow” in this collection? Hand-painted daisies on skirts and over-sized sunglasses. And the print mash-up with oriental kimono-like cut-outs. What was the idea, motif of the idea? No idea. But it felt attractive, a bit perverse and very mysterious. It feels elusive and totally Margiela.

Under The Palm Tree. Isabel Marant SS15

September 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

“My girl’s got a city to run,” Vampire Weekend frontman Ezra Koenig intones on SBTRKT’s “New Dorp. New York.”, the soundtrack to the Isabel Marant show, and the collection is all about that woman. A city girl in tailored but textural shapes, accented with elements from her travels to Africa and exotic islands. Tailored trousers and pleated, tiered mini skirts mixed with knitted shag coats and fringed tabarts, wrapped and tied at the waist. Maybe that wasn’t the best Isabel Marant collection, but you can’t say it was bad. It was french, and it felt like a good take on beach walk. It was very Parisienne, and at the same time ethnical.