Beautiful. Simply magnifique! Alber Elbaz, the designer of Lanvin, celebrates 125 years of that old, Parisian brand! Jeanne Lanvin created this brand for chic women- Alber Elbaz continues her motif up to today. For SS15, we’ve got really beautiful clothes here. Pink v-neck slip dresses. Check. Non-chalant blazer. Check. Statuesque gowns. Check. Everything is sexy, but with taste. And lets also note, which amazing models were present (and all my favourites): Edie Campbell, Jamie Bochert, Natalie Westling, Mica Arganaraz, Malgosia Bela… it was a real model clash. I also fell in love with the kind of dark, melancholic atmosphere- the dresses were feminine, but with a typical, elusive mystery hidden in it. If talking of the king of chic, mister Alber simply takes the crown this season.
Chic
Classic Chic. Christophe Lemaire SS15
Christophe Lemaire shows you each season, that to be his woman, you shouldn’t buy new clothes every three months. His woman is about one piece of his clothing; a trench coat, a white cotton shirt or a cashmere sweater. And you simply mix it with your personal style! Lemaire simply does the transparent fashion- it isn’t provoking, but makes the crowd look at you and say “she is chic”. In his SS15, the Parisian favourite brought lots of white and cobalt- we had blue pencil skirts, and interesting white shirts. The culottes tied with a loosely worn belt looked stunning with grey mules, while the tunics had it’s perfect place under the classical mackintosh. Possibly not much. But the golden rule is says, less is more.
New Boho. Missoni SS15
Angela Missoni, the new woman behind the iconic brand, Missoni, showed the new boho chic in her SS15 collection. Covered with the ethnic Missoni ZIGZAG print, we saw a rhapsody of over-size tredn: trousers in aqua marine colour; skirts in blush pink; Diana Vreeland like turbans on the model’s heads; gorgeous pyjama shirts… in other words, I wanted to jump into the perfect David Hockney pool, when I saw the collection for the first time. There were sensational flaring coats in lace knit double-faced with nylon tulle—a knitwear breakthrough for Missoni, because it created a perfect paradox: substance with a gossamer lightness. The embroidered flowers only made the coats better. The simplest shapes—a smock, a shift—were elongated and energized by finely graded colors. Missoni ruled yesterday with it’s boho triumph. Art by David Hockney.
Intrigue. Prada SS15
Staring at undulating purple sand dunes from the deep aubergine carpeted seating, the audience spent a good half an hour getting spaced out to a sci-fi whirring soundtrack that only built up the anticipation. And then the denim stitched coats came out, with Gemma Ward having an epic appearance. And then the Victoriana skirts. And it all changed into intrigue. Darkly romantic, beautiful with imperfections and shinings of the past without literally referencing tropes of the decade – we are totally convinced that we all need to look at the seventies through Miuccia-tinted glasses. Even these mysterious kimono dresses worn by types like Lara Stone felt slightly perverse but very sublime. Art by Mickalene Thomas.
Show Girl. Tom Ford SS15
Tom Ford sexy ups his label with every season. But this was over the top! Tricky velvet suits, sheer tops, sequin flowers sticked to nipples, Gucci-esque white gowns… a real show-girl time. The soundtrack was a narcotized female version of “Addicted to Love” (the vocalist’s emphasis on the addiction, rather than the love), to which extraordinarily proportioned girls—rail thin, seven feet tall in their platform clogs—teetered down the mirrored catwalk, eyes laden with mascara, hair in teased-out shags. Tom’s SS15 isn’t really about the “sexy” office go-out, but it’s surely for women which feel sexy in their skin… and attitude.


































