Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran just can’t help layering. But no one does it like them in this business. They manage to extract a certain poetry in the way they layer knits, flowing silks and outerwear. For their autumn-winter 2024 season, the Lemaire designers explained they sought a more intimate encounter with the clothes while wanting to welcome people into their “environment” – metaphorically, as their brand’s soul, and literally, as in their newly-opened headquarters. “Humbly and honestly,” said Tran. “For us, it’s a beautiful story of building a collective with strong values and a passion for doing good things,” added Lemaire. “Not so many independent brands in Paris have a studio, an atelier, all the departments in one building, so we wanted people to feel all of this.” The show’s staging comprised a raised, circular runway conceived by artist Fran Cottell. As the models (diverse in age and background) entered from the courtyard, they made the loop with clever yet natural choreography – lingering long enough to have their doubled-up, tone-on-tone jackets noticed; twirling to accentuate the movement of a ballet-style wrap skirt; proceeding with purpose in a relaxed, cacao-colored suit or total look in limestone. One model wearing black stirrup leggings, a sheer overskirt and block heels had a pair of derbies swinging from her bag. Somehow in Lemaire, effortless and impeccable coexist.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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