The 2010s / Lemaire AW15

Believe it or not – I can’t! – but we’re heading towards a new millenium. So, how do you choose the most important collections, designers and labels of the decade? The ones that made an actual impact in the 2010s? Well, it’s not an easy task. It all began in September 2009 with New York’s spring-summer 2010 shows and ended when the autumn-winter 2019 haute couture shows wrapped in Paris. Few thousands of shows, by the way. There will be 19 posts (that’s really the only possible minimum!) reminding about the best – and if not the best, then strongly influencing – moments in fashion.

Lemaire AW15 and sensual minimalism.

If you’re visiting my journal, even from time to time, you surely know how I love Lemaire. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran‘s Paris-based label is one of my ultimate favourites, every season. But in the 2010s period, it was their autumn-winter 2015 collection that completely, completely stole my heart. It was the perfect balance between minimalism and sensuality. So elegance, chic, yet wearable. And elusively appealing! The heat was undoubtedly turned up: more bare shoulders, more daring décolleté, plus a molded leather bag that Tran described as “boobs and ass.” Asked to describe  how the Lemaire woman has moved on, Lemaire answered: “More dangerous, less melancholic.” Sexuality that’s subtle; in between the lines; unobvious. But, as I said, any other Lemaire collection that we’ve seen this decade is nearly as good. Another favourites include autumn-winter 2019, spring-summer 2017 and autumn-winter 2013. And of course autumn-winter 2017, the collection I saw in person in Paris during a showroom presentation!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Stable and Slouchy. Lemaire SS20

At Lemaire, references and messages are absent, or very subtle, and comparing to most other labels, here the clothes do the talking. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran‘s woman doesn’t change from season to season – her style is consistent, just as the label’s style. For spring-summer 2020, the designers used a colour palette full of timeless neutrals, which perfectly fits their new bodysuits, pleated stone-colored chinos with a rib-grazing wrapped waistband or over-sized waxed-cotton coats. The brand showed a handful of belted styles, all of them easy enough to be tossed over a handbag strap when it gets warmer. In the designers’ words, the collection is about “stable, but slouchy” shapes. Its impossible not to be convinced by Lemaire’s comfortable elegance this season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

First (Lemaire) Autumn Dibs

Double-breasted jacket in silk (add a very bright shade of fuchsia to the picture). Belted, soft blouson in canary velvet. The most gorgeous sweater with puffy sleeves. Cropped chino pants in khaki. Over-sized, wool coat with military references behind it. Lemaire‘s first autumn drop is a delicious ‘hello’ to autumn-wardrobe-thinking. Just take a look at my favourites:

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Classics. Lemaire SS20

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When so much is going on in menswear (especially this season), there might be a need for something classic. In this case, you can’t go wrong with Lemaire. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran‘s spring-summer 2020 look-book is the perfect balance of softened workwear and tailored essentials, all kept in a colour palette of powdery, earthy tones. Shirting and loose tops came in prints produced in collaboration with a marbling designer, originally a specialist on bookmaking. The collection subtly nodded to Rüdiger Vogler in 1974’s Wim Wenders film Alice in the Cities, but even not knowing that, you’re completely convinced by this line-up. That’s the power of Lemaire – references are low-key, uninvasive, and you’re focused on the clothes.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.