Buckle Up. Christopher Kane Pre-Fall 2023

No one does “sex” and “sexy” like Chistopher Kane. His pre-fall 2023 is yet another reminder that the London-based designer owns this territory. The collection’s main character is a buckled strap. Broad, big, buckled straps are bound around the shoulders, necks, and hemlines of mini-shifts and coats. In one case they formed the entire upper body of a dress. Bondage and fetish might be the words we’d automatically reach for here, but not so fast. To Kane, the heavy-duty strapping, combined with reflective yellow, neon green, and orange fabric is more bound up with “uniforms, security, police women, and school lolly-pop ladies.” This season the designer indulged himself with circular cutouts, creating some of the most captivating eveningwear of the season. Circles roll through the naked waist of a long black column, and then wickedly expose two half-moons of flesh above a built-in bra. Kane points out that the collection will start dropping in April, so he’s also found room for “clothes to wear to weddings, cocktail parties, the things you need for summer.” There are little white dresses decorated with hand-drawn micro-flowers, patchworked from organic-shaped “blobs.” Flounced skirts in highlighter orange or lime have hems which can either be buttoned up in front, or left long. All-in-all, it’s a collection that covers a lot of bases, yet still looks inimitably Christopher Kane. By now, he’s accumulated a big playbook to draw on.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!


All About The Body. Christopher Kane SS23

Christopher Kane does “sexy” like no one else. But his “sexiness” hits different. The spring-summer 2023 collection was about the body. Literally. “I’m dissecting a woman. Dissecting her in the best possible ways. It’s forensic. In a good way!” And it was definitely about his own body of work. Here were Christopher Kane’s clinical obsessions, his taste for dodgy materials mixed with sweet-and-innocent ones, his chainmail and cup-cake shapes and his frank praise of sensuality, all metabolized in new ways. Dresses with clear vinyl body-brace straps with inset lace bra cups were the highlights of the line-up. Pretty pastel organza and white lingerie-lace edged skirts, doubled up into loops – another show-stopper. Then bouncy little mini-crini dresses of a Kane kind, suspended from geometric panels he described as “sliced with a scalpel.” Scottish cashmere cardigan-capes underlined the tension between sexy and regal. Kane printed a nurse’s dress and sheer twinset with pink roses. Was that an echo of the floral stickers he’d used 10 years ago, in his spring 2012 show? Well yes, but no. “Flowers are symbolic of love and death. It was all these things: celebration or condolence.” That is life. One of the flower-embedded vinyl dresses had a cutout pair of medical-illustration hands wrapped around its middle as a belt, a woman creepily turned into a human plastic-covered bouquet.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!


Sexual Selection. Christopher Kane AW22

Sexual Selection” is what Christopher Kane called his intriguing autumn-winter 2022 collection. All things sensual, erotic and kinky are Kane’s aesthetic vocabulary, and the latest offering is a sharp range of the designer’s favourites, as well as some new experiments. Coded references to mating behavior in nature – plants, animals, humans – have always been embedded in his work. This time, he drew a comparison between bird of paradise plumage and the blue-red-yellow of the tulle strips he draped into semi-sheer dresses – one of them had a black harness – with bodices laid over the breasts in the same material. That’s just for starters on Kane’s menu of fetish-y fashion play. He did it with outright skill in slick, black, wipe-clean cutaway dresses – pointy bras and gathered skirts suspended on matrixes of gold snake chains. There’s a fine line between sophisticated hinting at something and blatantly putting it out there. Wearers of Christopher Kane have appreciated his skills in that direction for ages. In these 34 looks, he’s done his thing – using double-take materials like wool faux fur, slinky gold chain mail, and white net drapes in all kinds of wicked ways.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Festive Guide: The Classics

Victoria Beckham resort 2022

From globetrotting adventurers to design-forward homebodies and fashion fans with a penchant for glamour – whoever you’re shopping for, this Christmas gift guide featuring timeless classics has the perfect presents to suit all styles this holiday season!

From left to right, top to bottom: Norma Kamali one-shoulder stretch-jersey dress, “Helmut Newton. Legacy” book by Taschen, Manolo Blahnik Hangisi satin slippers, Mateo 14-karat gold pearl choker, Prada crystal logo earring & Alaïa laser-cut leather clutch bag.

FRAME & Ritz Paris embroidered cashmere wweater, Gianvito Rossi green heeled sandals, Jil Sander pearl earrings, Charlotte Tilbury Hot Lips 2 Lip Balm “Enigmatic Edward”, Lanvin beige wool skirt & Jil Sander pouch.

Khaite off-the-shoulder column dress, Judy Geib Neogeo 22K and 18K gold earrings, The Row leather tote, Costa Brazil body cream, Cashmere In Love cashmere bralette & Cashmere In Love cashmere biker shorts, Anine Bing mules.

The Elder Statesman open-knit cashmere sweater, Cashmere In Love knit skirt, Maison Margiela Tabi ballerina flats, Dries Van Noten tulle skirt & Anine Bing bracelet.

The Row oversized silk and cashmere-blend coat , Byredo eau de parfum “Mixed Emotions”, The Row shoulder bag & The Row silk-satin gown.

Ralph Lauren cashmere sweater & Ralf Lauren cashmere midi skirt, Jil Sander wool gloves, Costa Brazil Skin Ritual Travel Kit, “Peter Lindbergh. On Fashion Photography. 40th Ed.” by Taschen & Issey Miyake wool shell dress.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

P.S. In this post, I happen to endorse products I genuinely love. If you end up buying something through the links, my site might earn an affiliate commission – which is always nice!

Ero-Chic. Christopher Kane SS22

This might be the season of “sexy”, but nobody does sex in fashion like Christopher Kane. Never vulgar, but always elusive, enigmatic, multi-faceted and exciting. For spring-summer 2022, the designer shot a show in a darkened London warehouse a couple of months ago and released in the middle of Paris Fashion Week. It opens with strong, black patent: straight to the point of a furious kind of erotic chic. Kane girls don’t necessarily want to serve things up on a plate: his talent is for designing ways that play wickedly with all kinds of covert suggestions. Right through the collection there are devices for revealing skin – necklines in little black dresses that hint at fetish but are banded with protective metal; unconventional slits or port-holes in otherwise perfectly proper, covered-up dresses; a sporty crystal mesh miniskirt with a zippered slit. Kane experiments with form, too – and that leads to all kinds of modern-looking techniques. One this season is his play with corrugated shapes – like a scarlet bra top and matching skirt armored with zig-zaggy 3D geometric frills. The thing is, you never quite know where Kane’s references come from – but his career-long insistence on short, leggy going-out dresses means a glut of choices for original-minded girls who are finally, finally out and about at parties and whatnot. One of the inspirations he did allude to is the life of ’50s sex-bomb Jayne Mansfield. She of the overspilling breast – a controversial star who blatantly flaunted her sexuality and incredible body at a time when all that was highly disapproved of. You glimpse her energy behind a diaphanous dress with a pink satin bra formed into sharp geometric satin points: provocative, yes, but also armored with self-confidence.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.