Who: Matthew Adams Dolan
Where: New York
What: Dolan’s denim jackets and signature shirt-dresses with exaggerated cuffs are perceived as the new ‘basics’. Why? Noting their couture-level tailoring, Matthew’s fashion is realistic and wearable, but far, far from trivial. It’s not about few good styling tricks or a thoroughly contrived Instagram ‘image’ that fuels the label. Dolan let’s the clothes do the talking for themselves, which is especially rare in the industry. The talented, young designer as well revises American fashion, creating the ultimate classics of 2018 (and for years ahead). SZA and Rihanna approve, just as the fact that Matthew became one of the finalists of this year’s LVMH prize.
SS19: This season, Matthew took a closer look at the American society, dissecting various ‘uniforms’ and recreating them in stylishly utilitarian looks. Splashed with colours – from acid green to bold fuchsia – the collection had the pieces you want to wear now: a belted, over-sized blazer, the ‘cashier’s vest’ worn over an over-sized shirt, a pair of bermuda shorts that can be mistaken with a midi-skirt. The young designer mentioned Claire McCardell as one of his main reference points for spring-summer 2019. McCardell is credited with the creation of American sportswear, and injecting it into women’s wardrobes. That sort of democracy appeals to Dolan, and he conveys that through the functional, yet not boring garments. It’s exactly fashion that the early 20th century designer would totally approve.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.