Seduction. Givenchy AW18

March 8, 2018March 8, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Clare Waight Keller‘s second season at Givenchy looks definitely more promising than the first one. The Hunger and B Movie: Lust and Sound in West-Berlin, 1979-1989 were on the designer’s mood-board. Weimar-era non-chalance of Berliners was also on her mind. The effect was eternally chic, seductive. And, quite intriguing. The ‘sleazy’ faux-fur coats, as Clare called them, were all over the show, and just note how beautiful they look belted. The collection also subtly nods to Hubert de Givenchy signature, the Little Black Dress (here elegantly ornamented with a huge bow). Also, I adored the way the ‘waterfall’ dresses in the evening section (as if anything here could be easily called ‘daywear’…) beautifully flowed down the models’ bodies. Even though it’s still too early to truly capture Waight Keller’s vision for Givenchy – which is rather dark, than light – she might be on the right path.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Elegance. Givenchy Haute Couture SS18

January 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sublime. Unpretentious. Elegant. Those were the first words that dropped in my mind while watching Clare Waight Keller‘s debut haute couture show for Givenchy. Back in October, I was on fence with her first ready-to-wear collection for the house – it felt like lacking any direction, taking clues from Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent era. But with this simply beautiful couture outing, I’m quite sure that Clare is finding her path at Givenchy. Moving away from her boho Chloé days for good, the designer gracefully revisited Hubert de Givenchy’s archives and delivered a line up of masterfully cut eveningwear. Forget futile venues; focus on the garments. She studied “the structure and graphism Hubert had in his work at the beginning.” And then, she indulged herself fully in it and got on with working with the atelier team in “the complete freedom couture offers.” From all-black looks to very fine-looking latex creations, I think there won’t be much of a problem with selection of the looks for the red carpet goers (think Cate Blanchett, Rooney Mara). I really hope to see that orange feather bomb in action, as well.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Basics. Givenchy SS18

October 3, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

I don’t want to spark a mood of competitiveness, but what Natascha Ramsay-Levi did at Chloé, replacing Clare Waight Keller, and what did the latter do at Givenchy, is just incomparable. I had big hopes that once landing at Givenchy, Waight Keller might leave her boho dresses era behind and go a new path. Well, she did. But her debut collection felt just… boring. Watching it, I felt nothing. Riccardo Tisci’s very printed, pro-millennial and Kardashian-y phase has been completely wiped out (for good), but the new Givenchy feels like Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent, just a bit more ‘proper’ – a bit glam, a bit rock, a bit of ‘French chic’. In overall, you can forget majority of the looks on the next day.

According to Clare, she dived into Hubert de Givenchy’s archives to catch up with the brand’s original roots. There were references to dress silhouettes from 1961 and shades of famous pastel-blue ‘Bettina’ blouse (the ruffle-trimmed piece from 1952 that launched Hubert’s career); the iconic Little Black Dress, worn with a Givenchy tag first in ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’, was rejuvenated with some pussy-bows and transparent sleeves; the lip motif, that covered mini-skirts, appeared to be also an archive find. But what’s the sense of moulding a collection out of archive codes, if in the end it looks like a line-up of very basic, commercially forward clothes (that don’t differ from many other brands, in fact)? There should be at least a bit the designer’s stamp. Oh, Clare. That was a mild debut. Big hopes for something more ‘authentic’ the next time.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Optimism. Chloé AW17

March 8, 2017March 8, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

First of all, happy International Woman’s Day!

Second, let’s talk about Chloé, a brand that is often defined as a woman’s favourite. Marking her last show for the brand, Clare Waight Keller wanted to convey something she does best: carefree girlieness, but with no sugar added. Her goal was to provide a sense of escapism through fashion. Feminine dresses were balanced with XXL jumpers and slouchy sweatpants. Voluminous knits with psychedelic patterns had lace skirts (or mini-dresses) peeking out of beneath, highlighting a look Clare mastered since her arrival to the French maison in 2012. She pulled off Gaby Aghion’s, the brand’s founder, signature flou like no other, while her chic collections (although at some points monotonous) matched Chloé aesthetic perfectly. And that’s not only visible in editors’ reviews, but in the brand’s sales. Hopefully, Waight Keller finds her new path, whether in Paris or London (where her fam is) – her talent for versatile fashion could be a bright future for any obsoleting brand. Optimism, which is the theme of her autumn collection, is something Clare can easily relate to, whether in the past or future.

Anne – France Dautheville. Chloé AW16

March 5, 2016August 24, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Clare Waight Keller, the creative director behind Chloé, knows what women want, and what the love. With her favourite, laid-back signatures, Clare revived the spirit of a Frenchwoman, Anne-France Dautheville, who travelled across Europe and Middle East on her motorcycle in the 70s. One of the looks was basically a motocross combo of a jacket and a pair of pants, styled with off-duty biker boots. With ecru foulards tied around necks, the girls wore the best-selling, ruffled silk and lace dresses, while the opening look was a voluminous, travel-forward poncho,. You can write and write about the beauty of each look separately, but one of the most remarkable (and simple at the same time) was Frederikke Sofie’s grey knit dress with elongated sleeves and a seductive v-cut neckline, which appears nearly everywhere this season. Her long, blond curls and this dress perfectly convey the message of this collection – feel free, in your life and when you travel. And you don’t need to be that Glastonbury girl in Hunter wellies to be one of those care-free souls… put your sweatshirt and bohemian skirt on, and GO!