There’s no other classy classic like a trench coat. Delivered by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen for the pre-fall 2018 season at The Row.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
The Look – The Row Pre-Fall 2018
Classic
Permanent. Céline AW17
For her autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Phoebe Philo invited Philippe Parreno to create an abstract, fully rotating venue. The eclectic set was the ultimate sign of what to expect from Céline this season – contrasts. Philo has those moments in her career, when she goes extremely arty, and then, strictly minimal. This time, it was both – sharp masculine blazers and white crisp shirts were harmoniously balanced with incredibly big blankets carried by the models and rain-coats with map of Paris printed all over them. But it doesn’t matter whether we’re speaking of a classical, black coat, or long-sleeved dress in burgundy – it was all about comfort combined with a kind of elusive sensuality. Flowing, maxi-dresses and fringed skirts were worn by the models as if they weren’t on a fashion show, but on the street. Surprisingly, Philo went for something more simple in case of shoes, switching from the two-colour heels of the last season. Semi-cowboy boots, ballet pumps, flats, all in earthy tones. Just like the bags, which will carry anything. Those clothes are permanent: they are here to serve for years.
Céline
Céline
Men’s: Jokes on Classic. Prada SS15
So, what did Prada serve us this time for her men’s SS15 and women’s Resort’15? Something you would probably not think of: a pool. In the middle of the show venue, we had a 90 deegree rectangular swimming pool filled with water. A pretty perfect mood for summer, isn’t it? But all the spark was in the fashion that was presented. “I interpreted the classics. It means everything and nothing. It means what looks good for me” said Miuccia Prada backstage, meaning that for menswear, she always can do what she likes most, while for womenswear, “we always have to push, push, push.” I totally agree with her in that fact – the men’s clothes were a fresh, updated version of her 70’s ugly-chic uniforms and the sandals had this Prada mood written all over it. “It’s kind of conservative. Conservative looks more new” Miuccia added. Utah boys visiting the concrete jungle, embroidered top-stitched everything, brown leather-detailed denim and cashmere versions of charity shop knits… it all felt old, but new in a way it was a bit forgotten by people. But as it sounds typically, nothing is really normal at Prada. The exagarated stitches are just the prove! You see them everyday on your denim, but here, Prada made them in the spotlight. If coming back to the pool, there was also an irony about it. Surrounded on all sides by bleachers covered in dodgy golden-brown carpet (only Miuccia would pair that with a glittering pool) that extended to a raised runway on the water, it was a Miuccia-style take on an old summertime chestnut. “It was a joke on what’s classic,” she commented after the show. So, was that just another show? No, it was a very Prada show.
About the artist: Israeli sculptor. He adopted the name Absalon on his arrival in Paris in the late 1980s. During his short career he achieved widespread recognition for the 1:1 scale architectural models that he constructed of idealised living units. These wooden models, painted white, demonstrate an obsession with order, arrangement and containment, and have associations both of protective shelters and monastic cells.
Boring. Reed Krakoff SS14
The SS14 at Reed was… hmm, like every Reed Krakoff collection for Summer. And that means- boring. It felt too classical with all these boudoir dresses in white colours and the mix of beige and lime… well it look cool in Zara, but not on the runway in at the end of the New york Fashion Week! Common, Reed, fashion has to be a bit more fun… I respect your aestethics, but why don’t you do something a bit more shocking than three looks with this neon coour from last season? Should that be the New York classical chic? Oh, no. Then I prefer a Michael Kors bomb than this collection that would be better for Resort….
Hitchcockian Seduction
Hermes by Christophe Lemaire for AW13 is revisting the Hitchcock woman into a new generation- perfect anonymous chic to provide a subtle charge. This is what Parisian Hermes should be like- a bit menswear, elegant and super chic. This is a antidote for the colour splash on the street style, that for a long time won’t wear Hermes for everyday. But why? Too expensive? Yes it is,but not form these Russian girls and American billlionaires. Hermes clothes do not have a label name EVERYWHERE. Ok, when Mira Duma wears this black tweed costume with fur pompon, there is no double C on it, but everyone who is interested a bit in fashion knows it’s Chanel. What I love in Hermes is the classical touch and this simplicity in every cape, fur… That is so beautiful!
Design & Culture by Ed 