Virginie Viard takes Chanel to its (at times clichée) codes. Viard titled her Métiers d’Art show “Paris 31 rue Cambon” for the street where Coco Chanel first set up shop as a milliner in 1910 (“Chanel Modes” at Number 21), and where she later expanded her fashion empire to embrace six additional 18th-century buildings, with her legendary haute couture salons at Number 31. The guests sat inside of Coco’s legendary apartment, XXL-scaled and set up in Grand Palais (there was even the famous mirrored staircase). “I adore the apartment,” Viard said backstage, and she evidently found inspiration in this setting where Chanel retreated from the running of her house and entertained friends. The designer described the collection as “the things we like, a mix of Karl and Chanel—the codes.” Of course, comparing to Lagerfeld’s globe-trotting Méters d’Art fairy-tales – think Moscow, Edinburgh, Texas, the Met in New York – seeing Viard show in Paris felt quite unamusing. Nevertheless, the collection was properly Chanel – elegant, refined, refreshingly minimal, yet far from modesty. The pre-fall collections of Chanel showcase the incredible work of the luxury suppliers of the fashion industry – embroiderers, feather and artificial flower makers, milliners, custom shoemakers – many of which Chanel has acquired to keep them operational and the skills alive. Viard, who directed the Chanel studio under Lagerfeld for decades, has a fine appreciation of what these ateliers are capable of. A bolero jacket with broad feathers overprinted with a shadowy pattern of Chanel’s iconic camellias; a feather blazer worked into a subtle trompe l’oeil plaid; eveningwear kept in the most gorgeous, sorbet ombré colour palette… delightful. Viard proves once again that her Chanel takes a slower approach, one that cherishes the timeless classics and the artisan work. Less Instagram moments, more beauty in the details.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Here is the first Resort 2014 campaign… and it’s of course Chanel that was taken by Karl Lagerfeld. The collection that was presented in Singapore and was inpired by Coco Chanel hobby of playing polo with her boyfriend, is now snapped in one of the preview photographs… what is it about? I think you need to ask Karl himself. But it’s still cool!
The new collection from London’s hottest new talents, Simone Rocha, is a remastered Coco Chanel look mixed with Film Noir aesthetics and Marilyn Monroe girlie looks- in other words, the element that was everywhere at Rocha’s SS14 collection? Pearls. Pearls everywhere! On dresses, trousers pockets, bags, shoes… Simone Rocha sewed them even on her classical dress with a lace ruffle! This is possibly the strongest collection of John Rocha’s daughter to date with it’s mature touches like elegant mini evening dresses with pearl collars and fantastic tomboy shoes… But it still was very Rocha- not too girlie and not too sophisticated- in other words, super comfortable and easy to wear!
“A collection is not just one basic idea. It comes from something that is in the air.” “I design eight collections per year for Chanel because I think Chanel is one of the few, if not the only company, where, every two months, the windows are totally renewed”“Guilty feelings about clothes are totally unnecessary. A lot of people earn their livings by making clothes so you should never feel bad!”“People buy dresses to be happy, not to hear about somebody who suffered over of a piece of Taffeta”“If you spend time waiting for inspiration to come to you, for the ideas to gush forth, it will be too late. It is like with magazines. There are deadlines. We have deadlines and that is a healthy form of discipline. It created ideas”“There will never be a Chanel collection without black”“Things have to be beautifully made even if they are full of fun, fantasy and futility”“I am happy that so many people in the world like Chanel!” All quotes by Karl Lagerfeld are very smart. And this collection celebrating Chanel’s 100 year anniversary is just one of the most beautiful in Karl’s carrier! With it’s world approuch, and amazing craftsmenship, it rocks the season. And the leather-vinyl boots with chains are simply KARLnifying!
A destroyed theatre, with smashed windows and peeling walls, was filled with scruffy, pre-war chairs where the guest would seat. Something is going to happen. Then something amazing happens, that even Rihanna and Natalia Vodianova gasp with excitement. From under the dark curtain thats hanging above the scene, a 3-D installation of metallic skyscrapers and blue sky are coming out. And it’s of course all in Grand Palais!
“It’s a new world” Karl Lagerfeld says, thinking of Singapore, where his Chanel resort was presented. The damaged theatre, as Karl said suggested Coco Chanel coming back after war, looking in Paris for something beautiful and quiet- rebuilding the fashion house. It is like a closed chapter of Chanel that Karl wanted to show. Now a new one, modern and elusive chapter is opened for the Parisian house. But the show was very dynamic, models ran the catwalk like on the olympics. Yes it sounds all very cosmic, but the clothes weren’t at all crazy. Tweed suites in new silver colours made from different weaving methods; dresses that were called kinetic by the designer, had a eerie silver polish.
There is also a pretty dangerous trend upcoming in jewellery- putting small diamond rings on all fingers in the hands, but- not in the typical place for wearing rings, but nearly on the nails! This bling looks really nice and modernistic, but feels a bit uncomfortable. Never wear it to a fish restaurant wee you may eat some crabs or shrimps; don’t wash your hands in it because you don’t really want to take out your diamonds from the sink. That’s why this trend in jewellery is super unpractical but super fashionable!
New models were tapped to the show- mostly Asian newcomers and rest was the it girls- Ashleigh Good, Jamie Bochert, Lindsey Wixson and Joan Smalls. There seems that a strong change is coming up to Chanel from the Eastern part of the world- time will show.