Unanswered Questions. Calvin Klein Collection AW26

February 14, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

After two entirely unmemorable and unresolved collections, Veronica Leoni’s third outing for Calvin Klein Collection is her strongest yet. That doesn’t mean it was flawless. A significant question still lingers: what is the actual purpose of this line? And why does it feel so disconnected from what Calvin Klein as a brand represents today?

It’s clear that Leoni wants to challenge both herself and the house by proposing sophisticated interpretations of minimalism. Yet the result often comes across as misguided, particularly in a city like New York, already saturated with minimalist labels. Why not take a cue from Dario Vitale’s now-legendary debut at Versace and engage directly with the most recognizable signifiers of contemporary Calvin Klein? Why not embrace full-throttle hedonism in the spirit of the Bad Bunny campaign? Maybe, in the end of the day, the hypothetical client of the brand wants to get laid. That shift would truly shake things up – for Calvin Klein Collection and for Leoni herself, a seasoned and undeniably talented designer who nonetheless appears somewhat constrained within this corporate behemoth.

Her autumn-winter 2026 collection assembles a series of compelling ideas – sack-like silhouettes, or her first foray into straightforward, muscular sex appeal expressed through sleeveless jackets that expose sculpted arms. But these moments are diluted by awkward curtain-like dresses and outerwear that feels closer to Helmut Lang than to Calvin Klein. A sharper edit might help clarify what Leoni is trying to communicate. Ultimately, however, the issue seems to lie within the institution itself: a brand that aspires to high fashion without fully committing to making it work. In that context, the designer becomes the casualty of the story.

ED’s SELECTION:

Calvin Klein Collection Anna Metallic Cracked-leather Pumps

Calvin Klein Collection Annie Stretch-knit Mock-neck Mini Dress

Calvin Klein Collection Kate Satin Slingback Flats

Calvin Klein Collection Luna Satin Skirt

Calvin Klein Collection America Duffle Medium Croc-effect Suede Tote

Calvin Klein Collection Parker Wool Blazer

Calvin Klein Collection Daisy Cotton-poplin Shirt

Calvin Klein Collection Felix Leather Brogues

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.

Poetic Lines. Ashlyn AW26

February 14, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Of all the contemporary New York designers, I truly think you should keep Ashlynn Park on your radar. She’s a designer I genuinely hope retailers choose to invest in. A Yohji Yamamoto alumna, she knows how to shape a peplum so that it feels not overly ladylike, but unmistakably modern, and she has an instinct for poetic line. Her namesake brand, Ashlyn, strikes a beautiful balance between restraint and impact – a quietness of gesture offset by punchy, deliberate details. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

Ashlyn Prince V-Neck Asymmetric Jacket

Ashlyn Cade Kick Flare Pants

Ashlyn Aislinn Wool Silk Coat Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.

New York Chic. Tory Burch AW26

February 12, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

You can always rely on Tory Burch – she never disappoints and consistently makes New York Fashion Week worthwhile. Her autumn-winter 2026 collection delves deeper into the interwar period she has been exploring of late, offering stunningly effortless drop-waist flapper dresses, elegantly contrasted with a subtle garçon-esque flamboyance in more utilitarian ensembles. Enter the meaty corduroy trousers – inspired by her father’s well-worn pair – and chunky sweaters layered over crisp shirts, collars peeking out from underneath. The strong lineup of highly wearable, unpretentious pieces was enlivened with silver fish pins and pendant necklaces. Woven raffia baskets for winter? Unexpected – and undeniably cool. This is a collection for the Leandra Medines of the world: women who dress eccentrically and instinctively, with wit, intelligence, and attitude.

ED’s SELECTION:

Tory Burch Pierced Pumps

Tory Burch Colorblock Wool Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.

Underwhelming. Proenza Schouler AW26

February 12, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Proenza Schouler officially opened New York Fashion Week with Rachel Scott’s official debut (following last season’s “dialogue” with the studio). On the positive side, the Proenza woman no longer resembles a hybrid of Philo’s Céline, the Meiers’ Jil Sander, and Lee’s Bottega Veneta, as she often did in the later years of Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough. The downside? The collection left you feeling somewhat underwhelmed. It was proper and prim – there was nothing wrong with the gray sleeveless dress featuring a sculptural roundness in the skirt, nor the neat midi-length skirt suits that followed – but it makes you wonder: will this be remembered a week from now?

This is a brand that needs to exit the stale “quiet luxury” jargon and reclaim a spark of excitement (which was actually present last season). Rachel Scott is the designer behind Diotima, a brand admired for its exquisite crochet and knitwear; I wish she were more confident about infusing that special, upbeat energy she transmits so well there. Debuts are never easy, and they don’t always land exactly as the designer intended. Scott certainly has a thing or two to reflect on.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.

Memory. Marc Jacobs SS26

February 10, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Do you ever think about the fact that our experience of time – divided into seconds, hours, and years – is a human-made framework rather than an inherent feature of the universe? Events occur, of course, but the 60-minute hour is a social convention, created to organize society, navigate daily life, and measure duration, often varying by culture. Time in fashion takes an even funnier turn. Something is awkward – but cool – today; tomorrow, it’s the hottest thing on the planet; the day after, it gives us the ick. Fifteen years later, it’s back, and people act like it never happened before: the next new thing. Add to that the cardiac-arresting rhythm of the industry – endless fashion months and the diktat of seasonality – and time becomes a topic nobody truly wants to acknowledge.

That’s why Marc Jacobs’ runway show yesterday felt so on point – and so honest. He titled it “Memory. Loss”, referring to the way our memories mingle, disperse, disappear, or stay with us forever, good or bad. He approached this abstract theme by revisiting his favorite moments in fashion history. While most designers shy away from straightforwardly referring to other creators, Jacobs is a proud student of fashion. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.