Sex! Tom Ford SS27

October 1, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Though fashion talks about sex constantly, very few manage to make something genuinely sexy – especially when algorithms serve nudity to us like just another trending reel. We’ve become so accustomed to being told what should turn us on that we’re increasingly numb to the subtleties where real seduction lives. Haider Ackermann, Tom Ford’s creative director, wants to bring back not just sexuality, but sex appeal – and, with it, a little genuine spark. In other words: he wants us to have good sex. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

TOM FORD Caleb-02 Square-frame Acetate Sunglasses

TOM FORD Croc-effect Leather Skirt

TOM FORD Snake-effect Leather Pumps

TOM FORD Stretch-modal Jersey Thong

TOM FORD Gold-tone And Tortoiseshell Plexiglas Cuff

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Unresolved. Dior SS27

October 1, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

At Dior, Jonathan Anderson wanted to achieve a sense of lightness. It’s probably one of the most difficult things to pull off, because if something goes wrong midway, the result can easily look clumsy and unresolved. And that is exactly what happened with this collection. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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End Of An Era. Saint Laurent SS27

September 30, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

The first days of Paris Fashion Week are already lined with a growing feeling of melancholy. The “Roaring” Twenties are slowly approaching their end. Will the Thirties be the new Great Depression?

Anthony Vaccarello’s not-yet-officially-final collection for Saint Laurent felt like a heartfelt good-bye, but to me it also read as the final ball. Nobody knows what tomorrow will bring, so let’s just have a party. The collection was to-the-death 1980s, walking a thin line between high-octane glamour and numbing tackiness. The overscaled chandeliers echoed those of the InterContinental Hotel, where Yves Saint Laurent used to present his collections (especially the very last ones, which were actually the least critically acclaimed). The little chanson Charlotte Gainsbourg sang for Anthony only added to the maître de cérémonie energy. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

SAINT LAURENT Guermantes 95 Patent-leather Slingback Pumps

SAINT LAURENT EYEWEAR Sl 902 Howl D-frame Acetate Sunglasses

SAINT LAURENT Woven Midi Skirt

SAINT LAURENT Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Camisole

SAINT LAURENT Bo Coeur Fetiche Gold-tone And Crystal Clip Earrings

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Home Duties. Julie Kegels SS27

September 28, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julie Kegels has just won this year’s LVMH Prize and today opened Paris Fashion Week. The business is growing, the brand is evolving, and with that comes a whole new set of duties for the Belgian designer – home duties, that is. At its core, Kegels’ label has always had a distinctly domestic feeling. She loves exploring intimacy, often through the things that surround us and the way we live. Her woman is constantly caught between rushing and taking it slow. The lace-trimmed negligee is simultaneously done and undone; sheer underskirts are dusted with powder (who hasn’t had a make-up malfunction?), while she remains perpetually ready to leave, jewels already in place.

There is also Kegels’ very Belgian affection for trompe l’oeil and optical illusion. The tights have dropped crotches, the trousers seem to be slipping down, and dresses are abruptly cut in unexpected – and increasingly risky – places. This season, some are quite literally slashed as if by a serial killer. It is this kind of perplexing oddness that makes Julie Kegels’ work so intriguing: it constantly plays with what we think we are seeing, refusing to settle comfortably into any one category or definition.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Humanity. Bottega Veneta SS27

September 28, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

After the overall feeling of robotic coldness and algorithmic calculation that ruled this Milan Fashion Week, Louise Trotter’s emphasis on tactility at Bottega Veneta is hard not to fall for. It’s a reminder that we’re still human after all. The clashes of textures, techniques and colours are zesty and intelligent; this is a wardrobe – and a set of ideas for dressing – for people who, at the end of the day, love culture.

The only thing I wish Trotter would reconsider is the voluminous silhouette she feels so comfortable with. Sometimes the baggy dresses and tailoring come across as unresolved. Not that they’re slouchy – but it would be refreshing to see the designer shed some of the layers and come closer to the body.