Dolls. Conner Ives AW25

February 25, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

This one’s for all the dolls. Conner Ives presented his ultra-glamorous offering of eveningwear at Savoy’s Beaufort Bar, and one can easily imagine women strutting and striding in those fur-tripped numbers or Art Deco-ish piano-dresses during the night. The plum number with deep, plunging neckline was accessorized with fringe-y headwear made out of bottle caps, making it all feel not overly serious. That’s exactly Conner Ives’ sense of style: tongue-in-cheek-chic. The line-up emanated with a certain whimsy-but-cool, sexy-but-with-a-twist femininity, reminiscing Stella McCartney’s days at Chloé. Brits know how to have fun.

ED’s SELECTION:

Conner Ives Tie-neck Appliquéd Stretch-micro Modal Jersey Tank

Conner Ives Paneled Printed Recycled Cotton-jersey Dress

Conner Ives Appliquéd Printed Cotton-jersey T-shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Noble Characters. Burberry AW25

February 25, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Burberry felt good. Maybe it didn’t reinvent the wheel, but being conceptual was never a Burberry thing to do. Daniel Lee is starting to know what he’s doing and that showed in his best collection yet, the autumn-winter 2025 outing, riffing on the style of British aristocracy with a grain of salt. The clothes – outerwear, especially – were convincing and desirably-looking, but let’s be honest: the casting worked the hardest, and it gave the collection a sense of authentic believability. From Naomi Campbell to Jason Isaacs, you saw true characters on the runway – who happened to wear Burberry (that looked like Burberry – finally!). One thing Lee could work on is the heaviness some of his clothes are burdened with, especially the eveningwear.

ED’s SELECTION:

Burberry Embroidered Quilted Leather Ballet Flats

Burberry Wrap-effect Checked Wool Midi Skirt

Burberry Embroidered Suede Gloves

Burberry Intarsia-knit Wool Sweater

Burberry Belted Double-breasted Cotton-blend Twill Trench Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Venus In Chaos. Dilara Findikoglu AW25

February 23, 2025February 23, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dilara Findikoglu fired up London Fashion Week with her outing at Slimelight, the longest-running Goth nightclub in town. Lead by Lara Stone, a pack of ferociously badass women, clad in hyper-corsetry and second-skin chiffon body stockings stalked through the dark space, utterly entrancing the viewers. Entitled “Venus in Chaos”, the collection was “a divine feminine mutiny“, as the designer summed up in her press-notes. Botticelli-goth hair, a bustier covered with hundreds of shells, red velvet jackets (un)finished with punk-ish safety pins, unexpected cuts in the most “risky” places, tattered hems and ripped lace: all that created an extreme impression of total liberation from societal norms – and the pleasure of sexual self-possession. It’s easy to compare Dilara’s subversive work to John Galliano or Alexander McQueen’s, aesthetics-wise, but what makes her differ is her powerful female gaze that truly makes you believe these otherworldly women are here to break the patriarchal system.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Edie & Nico. Zankov AW25

February 17, 2025February 16, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

A great autumn-winter 2025 lookbook was delivered by Henry Zankov. This designer knows what he’s doing with his knitwear-focused label. Inspired by Nico and Edie Sedgwick, the 1960s New York it-girls and Warhol Factory stars, he came up with a fresh interpretation of their style that doesn’t feel too mood-boardy. Oversized paillettes on a sweater or a skirt peeking out from beneath fuzzy coats were reminiscent of the sequins Sedgwick might have picked up from Paraphernalia. The absolutely brilliant combination of a vividly hued sweater and boyish lanky pants was pure Nico, 2025 version. But what’s most important, this Zankov collection feels wholeheartedly joyful, honest – and believable. It makes me think of Consuelo Castiglioni’s Marni, in the best possible way.

ED’s SELECTION:

Zankov Raven Merino Wool-jacquard Turtleneck Sweater

Zankov Delphine Brushed-knit Skirt

Zankov Mina Sequined Wool Cropped Cardigan

Zankov Lune Two-Tone Sleeveless Maxi Wool Dress

Zankov Marshall Abstract Pencil Merino Wool Maxi Skirt

Zankov Alicja Tow-Tone Wool Scarf

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Essence. Proenza Schouler AW25

February 16, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Everyone wondered how will Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McColough mark their (still puzzling) departure from Proenza Schouler. They did with a beautiful, winter-y, yet sun-drenched lookbook photographed at Manitoga/The Russel Wright Design Center, featuring the ultimate Proenza girls. Binx Walton is wearing a lime-green pleated toga-dress while snow is melting in the background. Julia Nobis looks like the ultimate New York woman in a grey checked blazer, pin-striped shirt and over-sized corduroy balloon-pants. Mica Arganaraz emanates quirky cool in cowl neck dress. In their finale (co-directed with Lisa Muscatel, the long-time head of the design studio), Hernandez and McColough sublimate their signifiers and show us what Proenza Schouler really is in contemporary fashion (that wasn’t always the case with their recent work).

But what’s the future of the brand? Time (and its new CEO, Shira Suveyke Snyder) will tell.