Trend Report SS15

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Summer is the time when we loose our self to the beach, sun, parties. And it also bring the new tendencies to fashion. The SS15 season is simply full of bright, chic ideas- with Seventies influences from Saturday night fever to hippy deluxe, a khaki nod to military style alongside nautical accents, experiments with transparency, patchworks of vintage prints and a mix & match approach to volume and fabric, for summer 2015 we’re set to see contrast take center stage. It’s a storm of ideas this season. So here’s Design & Culture by Ed’s TREND REPORT for summer.

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Who doesn’t love boho? It’s so french, slightly gypsy and very comfortable. Mix delicate, fragile fabrics with over-sized trousers and turbans; invest in a huge, ethnic towel or cape for beach days. Stepping straight out of 1970s Marrakech, these long, light and flowing dresses will billow in the breeze this summer as you take on the elements in style. Inspired with over-sized style Talitha Getty, the boho chic feels totally all right for summer. Baja East, Dries Van Noten, Missoni, Chloe, Rodebjer.

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Again, beach. Nautical stripes and captain jackets are the IT trend if talking of a summer escape. Or even a spa run-away. Take Acne Studios, where the models wore towels as mini dresses. Or Jacquemus which talked about beaching season in his beloved Marseille in France. And even dough beach-fashion might make you think sexy, the designers for SS15 are much more democratic and safe (unless you forget your bikini under Lanvin’s mesh top)! Anthony Vaccarello, Jacquemus, Marc Jacobs, Acne Studios, Lanvin.

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Oriental vibe was on most of the designer’s mood-boards. Obi belts, kimono silhouttes, sharp colours were all here during the Milan and Paris fashion week! There is something sensual in these cut-outs. and the japonesque over-sized trousers look chic with sandals and quiet, comfortable pumps. It’s truly a zen state for summer. Alexander McQueen, Marni, Gucci, Celine.

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Boyish trend is nothing really, new but the androgynity grows in power every season. Blazers, tailored trousers and le smokings from 70’s are stealing the spotlight. Also, the business woman in mini skirts chages her femme fatale shirt into a delicate, loose tank top. Saint Laurent, Maison Martin Margiela, Sonia Rykiel.

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Lace is the most fragile fabric of all. It’s a bit ironic, but at the same time very naive and feminine. Nicolas Ghesquiere looked at this traditional materials from a much more modern perspective, while Chloe made the lace dresses a great tribute to the 70’s free spirit. Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Givenchy, Chloe, Louis Vuitton.

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Who ever said that prints should be same? The SS15 is full-filled with everything- from florals like at Celine (YES.) to sharktooth a Mona Kowalski’s A Detacher. It was surely one of the most cheerful seasons for a long time… Roksanda, Thakoon, Celine, A Detacher, Marc by Marc Jacobs.

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Loose yourself to dance! The 70’s glamour and Saturday Night Fever are back in opulent, sexy and chic way. Who knows it best? Tom Ford. Those transparent tops with flowers embroidered on nipples and the high waisted trousers are the perfect fit for a lux disco. Acne Studios, Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant, Tom Ford.

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And now a contrast way of partying- being the Uptown girl, with a creme sweater, white blazer and comfortable, but elegant trousers. The New Yorker and Parisians know that trend best. It’s not about “drifting in gold”. It’s about being “less is more”. Celine, Victoria Beckham, Lanvin, Tibi.

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Khaki is a movement of military trend although this season, it’s much more calm and elegant. V-neck sweaters, bomb dresses, artsy tracksuits and leather coats are the thing for active summers in forests. Khaki, in overall, is a cool colour. Creatures of Comfort, Sonia Rykiel, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Hermes.

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Fly high and free as a bird! Feathers and feather like materials made all of the gowns look fresh and beautiful. MSGM’s main motive was freedom, which was perfectly represented by small, paradise hummingbirds and parrots. Fendi flies, too, with their chic cocktail dresses. MSGM, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, Balenciaga.

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I am in love with this trend, as it’s my moment’s obsession. Old, oriental tapestries and 70’s patterns were combined together, to create dreamy coats, dresses and pantalons. The proof for the new electic chic is the incredible fabrics at Dries Van Noten, the graphic foliage and florals at Maison Martin Margiela, and Prada’s eastern evocations. Maison Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela, Prada.

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Art always go in pair with fashion. That’s why the biggest artists of SS15, Juny Watanabe and Thomas Tait, brought as cubism in new, super bold dimension. This season saw an intriguing combination of influences from Roy Lichtenstein, one of the world’s leading pop-artists, Mondrian and Sonia Delaunay. With circle motifs, bright colors and bold, intersecting stripes the collections were a truly vibrant display. Loewe, Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten, Thomas Tait, Roksanda.

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RED RED RED RED. Bloody red. Rose red. Love red. Temper red. Leather red. Vetements, Comme des Garcons, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu.

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Black & white is a combination of modernity and elegance. It’s a classic. It’s ethernal. Jonathan Anderson of his name-sake brand mastered this contrast in a very lady-like way, while Anthony Vaccarello made the models look like sex bombs in those giving-leg gowns. Balmain, J.W. Anderson, Anthony Vaccarello.

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What is American style? It’s all about being fit, loving rodeo, having a cacti and playing Barbie. My new favourite all-American labels? Mara Hoffman which fuses denim with crochet and The Elder Statesman, which is all about dyed prints and best, U.S. quality. It’s an American Dream! Mara Hoffman, The Elder Statesman, Iceberg, Alexander Wang, Moschino.

The Best of AW14

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My number one this season is Haider Ackermann. His beautiful fall was dark, elusive and very Parisienne. Models wore masculine coats and trousers, slim maxi dresses, over-sized shirts and leather jackets. This collection is the quintessence of chic.

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Celine had the cool non-chalance in it. Phoebe Philo brought us fur muffs, kimonos, over-sized tunics and sleek coats, making the collection extremely casual with these fabulous, patent leather clogs. As usually, it’s one of my favourites.

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Tibi from New York had the best ponchos of the season! Styled with black mules, Amish hats and black midi skirt, the label had one of the most great looks in the whole season. And many other pieces are still having a spotlight…

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Dries Van Noten was all about stripes, colour and florals. It had a lot of coolness in it- a midi skirt worn with a orange skirt was never so interesting and sophisticated!

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Miuccia Prada as usually brought Prada the most outstanding pieces of the season. Shearling jackets, cricket v-neck sweaters, Bauhaus inspired heels, monkey fur dress, bags with chains… and many, many more.

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I have a special place in my heart for that Acne collection. It’s fresh, Scandinavian vibe and tribal printed culottes are simply amazing. And of course the exaggerated hats! You want get a cold wearing one of them, that’s a sure thing!

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Louis Vuitton has Nicolas Ghesquiere right now, and his debutant collection was simply it. 40’s & 60’s fashion come back with huge steps. And all these boots are a must-have, just like the Petit Malle clutches.

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Yohji Yamamoto’s winter collection is the most unwearable and most fantastic of all. The cocoon coats with those hand painted manga illustration are not clothes any more, but art.

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N.21 by Allesandro Dell Acqua was very Italian. It has three key pieces- a cozy, wool sweater, an embroidered, midi skirt and pointy polished flats. And nothing else.

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The relaxed Marc Jacobs collection was my favourite from New York. It was all head in clouds, with these pastel colours, v-cuts, solemn and pale faces of models and Jessica Lange attitude.

These were my 10 favourite AW14 collections… and on the 4th, officially, the NYFW starts with SS15! Yay!

Men’s: Maison Martin Margiela AW14

Slide01Maison Martin Margiela did a greatly tailored collection for their AW14.  Mixed with utilitarian elements, fur and leather, some artisanal vests and jackets were created, looking damn cool and practical. Then there was this amazing shirling fur jacket, black capes and radiant blue leather appearance throughout the show. The collection is contemporary, comfortable and elegant, but as well full of young, creative spirit. And the show venue was fantastic- a huge space that simply nailed it. zdjęcie 4 Slide02 Slide03 Slide04 Slide05 Slide06

Men’s: Fuchsia. Dries Van Noten AW14

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So he wanted the clothes to feel old. Coats were completely dyed and then acid-washed; striped businessmen’s shirts were tie-dyed; a jean jacket was overdyed to an oily sheen; jeans were stripped with acid. And a worn khaki coat could have been vintage military. There was a feel of the itinerant tribes the U.K. calls “travellers” in these seemingly repurposed pieces. Dries Van Noten AW14 was one of the most colourful and buzzy shows of the season… And the colours were breaking the news.

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Men’s: Nuns. Rick Owens AW14

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Rick Owens, the master of darkness (and great Parisian athlete at the same time) created a new iconic collection for men that wasn’t so dark… after SS14’s Estonian heavy-metal group performance, this time we are getting seriously religious in a new, minimalistic aesthetic. The collection kept in brown, creme and black, was very sporty and at the same interesting. Models wore nun’s head covers, classical Rick Owens trainers and leather sweatpants… combined with lose unitarian vests and over sized tops. Is this the new sign of religious vs. fashion friendship? Hope so because Ricky did it in a great way.

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