The Sense of Print

Slide1-kopiaPrints are always the key element of every Altuzarra collection. Thanks to SSENSE.com, now we can explore deeeper the inspirations of Joseph Altuzarra’s magic skill of printing and embroidery in his amazing collections. Everytime he choses a colour or motive for his new print, Joseph’s mind is being influenced by travels and everyday life. It may be a jungle paradise, ethnic flower print or Nazca caligraphies. And here is a recap of Joseph’s biggest hits!Slide2Resort 2013– Altuzarra explored culture of nomadic people, trekking into the heart of African Safari. The print that are used on the skirts, as he said, are inspired by Massai tribes. The colours were left as they are in reality- pigments of curulean blue, verillon red.Slide3SS 2012– Joseph interprated the classic Hawaiian shirt and hulla skirt, and made it cool and very New York. The prints “contained” hibiscus flowers, parrots, liles and hyper strong colours. This paradise is very close to heart of designer because when he was a child he remembers the bird watching in California. And this is my favourite print of all! Slide4Resort 2013Slide7Fall 2012- Altuzarra took us to the souks of Marrakesh when creating his prints for winter. He revisted traditional motifs of Maroccan rugs, used jacquard and tribal luxury in the coats with fox fur. The fragile silk sweaters were meant to replicate… carpet effect. When I saw it for real (it was like yesterday… :D) it looked horrrible. And that was as for me the worst collection of this designer. Slide5Spring 2013- The 2013 Altuzarra Collection was like a plate of Indian curry mixed with duck’s foie gras. Definitely there was too much of everything. Butterflies, India, gendarmes outfits, orthopaedic leg braces… Yes leg braces! An I’m talking about these horrifying gladiator shoes with butterflies. They really look like they were inspired with orthopaedic legs, but with some “beautiful” ornament.Then we’ve the highly tailored jackets. They look, like if they were stolen from a wardrobe of a French gendarme. But only the colours are different and the Altuzarra ones are more stylish. And if we believe Altuzarra, the print was all about vintage jewellery- Al­tuzar­ra looked to the American natural­ist art move­ment of the 1940’s to create this print for the SS13 season.

Virtual. Christopher Kane Resort’14

Slide1-kopia 8“I love science” said Christopher Kane during his presentation of Resort 2014 for women. And this collection is seriously fantastic. Kane, inspired by the kind of digital imaging that defined the dawn of computerized special effects, did something that kicked everyone in their faces. This is like you’ve into a virtual world, where everything is 3-D and has it’s layers. There are women bodies and flowers. And now imagine, this world on a… sweatshirt or a dress! After AW13, I thought Kane’s creativity will be killed by the new group Kering that invests him lots of money. The AW13 collection was like very classical, colourless… luxurious. But now, after seeing this I am so pleased, that this absolutely great designer will be still shocking! Slide2-kopiaSlide3-kopiaThe whole “computerized” idea reminded me of this little Pokemon fellow that is called Porygron. As you see, it’s also kind of virtual, edgy and colourful! From now, Porygron is the most trendy Pokemon in London! Going back to the collection, couture is strongly noticed. But a very Londonese. And I think that some super stars could for sure wear this black dress with the lily in the front- it is so beautiful! Christopher Kane is a really different designer- luxurious (price!!!) and at the same time artistic and full of idea. This is what I like! Slide4-kopiaSlide5-kopia

Twinset. Marc Jacobs Resort’14

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Marc Jacobs suprised! And in a good meaning! Well, I thought, that Marc would do something, you know, full of flowers, colours and everything like everytime for the Resorts. And that’s totally not true! The Resort is like a continuation of SS13 and AW13. Glamorous sequins, 70’s polo shirts and skirts, New York “Great Gatsby” epoque and of course… Stripes! The collection is very mature, totally not sweet and cute as last resort.
Is Marc getting a bit of inspiration from… Prada? Look at the blue stripes- and now see SS11 of Miuccia Prada. The crepe skirts are just like Miu Miu SS13 and use of fur in summer? Plus there are also lots of crystals that were in the 2010 Prada era… As for me that’s totally clear- Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs are life friends so why not? Will we see soon a collab of these two!
And back to the collection- Jaime Bochert looks beautiful here! Just as the collection!

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Brit in Milan. No21 AW13

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No.21 is new great fashion star of Milan that is known for it’s super cool ready to wear collections. This season, Dell Agua, the designer, made the real Brit in Milan look! Great tailored jackets in brown colours, lots of sequins, leather and beautiful camel/pink colours were seen. The cloths had also a sophisticated but grunge look that was, I would say, easy to go!

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There was a lot of fur in the collection and… Beautiful coats! These had straight clean lines, amd looked minimalistic. The British inspired element was for sure the romantic flowers print. It was divided thanks to a black leather belt.

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