Gypsy Life. No21 SS16

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Care-free. Comfortable. These are the words that can easily describe Alessandro Dell Acqua‘s No21 spring-summer 2016 collection. With George Michael’s moody tune playing during the fashion show, the models of the moment – Lineisy Montero, Molly Bair, Stella Lucia – wore long, silk dresses in delicate cigarette prints. The romantic colour palette was broken by gypsy-esque florals and modernist stripes. Also, the collection was plenty of the season’s favourite bias-cut slip dresses thrown over t-shirts – this gave the entire collection a very easy attitude, and the socks styled with sheer skirts were a throwback to #normcore. These clothes will definitely hit the stores with success, just like the statement tasseled, raffia sandals. These will be truly popular next season, as they are instant favourites of street-style stars. Also, it is worth to note that within the new season, No21 starts a new eyewear business. The first silhouettes are circular, simple and very comfortable. I must admit, that season after season, Alessandro builds his fashion identity with amazing speed – this collection can be called as the best one to date. And no wonder why. It is really good.

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Party Girl. Victoria Beckham AW15

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Victoria Beckham which you knew during her first years of fashion career and Victoria Beckham that you know now are two, utterly different women. The one in the past wore super high heels and slim cocktail dresses; the one now prefers flats and comfortable, over-sized clothes in which she feels best. Beckham’s AW15 is just the right reflection of how she, herself, feels – easy, feeling happy with her kids and life. Slouchy knits, carrot-shaded midi skirts, wearable boots and cobalt coats are all, as she said, so beautiful, that you can wear them for a very long period of time. Also, Victoria experimented with textures and layers – the last two final looks had long, cut-out skirts which were definitely a new field of discovery for the designer. This collection easily proves, that Victoria Beckham really feels well in her own skin.

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Men’s – Steady. Lemaire AW15

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Christophe Lemaire changed the name of his own, eponymous label, into LEMAIRE. What does it mean? He wants it to be even more descreet and less personalized. “We thought it was time to clarify and reboot, to give it a family name which reflects that we are very much a design duo,” he said. Sarah Tran, his partner, added: “It’s also to say that what we do is about teamwork—people working for a name, yes, but a less personified one than before.” In his AW15 collection, the men, as usually, looked steady and ready for daily life. Comfortable parkas, loosely tailored trousers and over-sized capes were mixed with a slight body exposure. Mostly, the models didn’t wear shirts under their casual blazers. “It is always about the idea of showing a man who is steady,” he said. Fall 2015’s articulation of that Mr. Reliable was based on Alexandre, the amorous protagonist played by Jean-Pierre Léaud in La Maman et la Putain. 

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Christophe Lemaire Menswear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

Surfboard Dreams. The Row Pre-Fall’15

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Last pre-fall was dark and heavy. This pre-fall is light and smooth. Why? The Olsens went beach for this autumn. Surfboard inspirations? Yes, but in a very subtle way. Only the fastening zippers and fur ponchos worn like “surfers wear their towels”. And of course pool-slides with beaded and sequined straps handmade by a nonagenarian granny, The Row is known for its beautiful minimalism, but this season, as all the others for last few years, is perfect. The mood, the colour palette (lilac, beige, claret…) and textile usage. And the most important – everything is super wearable… again, The Row takes a bow.

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Cedric Charlier’s Colour Blocking

Slide1-kopia 3Belgian designer Cedric Charlier’s eponymous label boasts clean, sporty cuts in a rainbow of bright hues, colour block patterns and abstract prints this Resort 2014 season. As Cedric is a pretty new name in Parisian fashion scene, he already has an eye on the future. How not to love these easy-going dresses, funny prints and comfortable suits in these Summer colours? I feel powerless to that.
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