Très Cool. Coperni AW22

Coperni ate it up this season! This is definitely my favourite collection coming from Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer‘s Parisian label so far. The hoodie-lapelled blazers, overcoats and fleeces that you see Coperni’s It-model cast wearing so coolly here represented a challenging design brief for Vaillant and Meyer’s tailoring atelier to achieve: they had to look good worn both up and down. As Vaillant showed on his phone pre-show, the women of that atelier – named Cap Est Sarl – sent the designers pictures of themselves wearing the prototypes as that development progressed towards runway-readiness in the last few weeks. “They are so cute, always trying the pieces before sending them – I love them,” said Meyer. Added Vaillant: “They are in Ukraine, in Kyiv: we hadn’t heard from them for a few days. They are safe for now. And we dedicate this collection to them.

This show placed this collection within the pressure cooker arena in which the insecure adolescent chrysalis is forged into the self-aware young adult butterfly: high school. On a runway framed by school lockers and to an excellent faux-radio broadcast of upbeat disaffection the models first emerged as laconically withdrawn, cloistered in those hooded pieces of generically reinvented tailoring. These did indeed work with the hood/lapel worn back off the head. Other cleverly twisted takes on tailoring were the disassembled jacket crop tops and miniskirts and a twist-fronted Le Smoking jacket with cut outs at the midriff whose construction translated finely into menswear fleeces and trench coats. A waistcoat, sometimes cut in a crystal pinstripe, also incorporated a hood that came with cute little Batman ears. Aran knit short-sleeved bodies featuring that hood and a circular cutout at the back were eccentric takes on a preppy knitwear mafia staple. Jeans and leather pants that were worn as gaiters cut to just above the knee were a funny riff on low-waistband rebellion. Upcycled Adidas Gazelles and zip-decorated pumps aside, notable footwear included chisel toed articulated soled derbies whose vectored shape was inspired by the Tesla Cybertruck prototype. Coperni’s emblematic Swipe bag appeared in blown glass: calamity was avoided when the model carrying it caught her heel on the runway and pitched forward before pulling off a graceful recovery. We shifted towards the big butterfly-emerges moment – prom night, of course – via a grungily pretty asymmetric dress in white French velvet worn with those Adidas, and a super clever minidress made entirely of upcycled ties. Prom queen candidate gowns substituted tulle for rose strewn latex and a dancefloor’s worth of who’s-sorry-now sheer minidresses. This was an extremely witty collection that was very cleverly conceived by the designers – and wonderfully cut by those Kyiv craftswomen.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Festive Guide: Take It Easy

Balenciaga resort 2022

What to buy for the homebody? As the temperature dips, our homes become more important than ever. And for the homebody, this means a renewed commitment to all things hygge – with a focus on those everyday luxuries that make staying indoors ever more chic. At the top of her wishlist is undoubtedly a unique tracksuit that is polished yet practical. Tactility is key – so button-up cardigans, socks and blankets will tick all the right boxes, while a pair of shearling mules from Molly Goddard will delight. Here’s the “take it easy”, last-minute festive guide.

From left to right, top to bottom: Marc Jacobs logo-print mini t-shirt dress, Sleeper pompom-embellished shearling flats, Anine Bing sleep mask, Dries Van Noten feather-trimmed cotton-terry track pants & “Jean-Michel Basquiat. 40th Ed.” book by Taschen.

Marc Jacobs Heaven heart earrings, Proenza Schouler x Birkenstock “Arizona” slides, ERL logo socks, Cashmere In Love cashmere halter top & Amomento brown eco-fur balaclava.

Cashmere In Love hoodie, Rag & Bone bouclé sneakers, “Virgil Abloh. Nike. ICONS” book by Taschen, Issey Miyake shell knit bag & Dries Van Noten feather-trimmed cotton-jersey sweatshirt.

Marni sabot loafers, Coperni cut-out bodysuit, Bea Bongiasca asymmetrical flower power hoop earrings, Molly Goddard x UGG sheepskin slippers, Raf Simons silk pants & Rick Owens jacket.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

P.S. In this post, I happen to endorse products I genuinely love. If you end up buying something through the links, my site might earn an affiliate commission – which is always nice!

Festive Guide: Shine Bright!

Prada autumn-winter 2021

This holiday season is going to feel extra-special ­for many after last year – and getting dressed up is all part of the joy. This gift guide is for those who love to sparkle – and are planning to shine bright the entire 2022! A pair of golden Manolos will please any Carrie fan (hello, And Just Like That premieres on the 9th of December!), while the sequinned, faux-tie-dye pants from Ashish will be the best present for a glamorous home-stayer. Paco Rabanne’s metallic chain-mail skirt will elevate any New Year’s Eve to a Studio 54 event. And how about a camp-y Judith Leiber poodle clutch? Checked. Still, the award for the most glistening and over-the-top present goes to Prada’s bucket hat that went full-on Christmas tree. Discover my first festive guide below – and stay tuned for the others that are coming in the next couple of days!

From left to right, top to bottom: Coperni purple glittered mini-dress, “Astrology. The Library of Esoterica” Taschen book, Rosantica gold-tone crystal hair clip, Magda Butrym single crystal star brooch, Prada sequin bucket hat, Prada crystal block-heel slingback pumps, Alan Crocetti gold & pink ring.

Dries Van Noten fringed lamé top, Paco Rabanne silver mini shoulder bag, Paco Rabanne silver sequin midi-skirt, Saint Laurent crystal bracelet, Prada platform booties.

Dries Van Noten feather-trimmed sequined skirt & Erdem black embroidered bag.

Jiwinaia pearl earrings, Balenciaga pinstripe midi dress, Versace platform heels, Coperni swipe bag, “Witchcraft. The Library of Esoterica” Taschen book, Paco Rabanne crystal bracelet.

AREA crystal-embellished jersey t-shirt, Mary Jane Claverol embellished turban, Judith Leiber Couture French Poodle crystal-embellished clutch, Ashish sequined pants, Manolo Blahnik “Kika” golden stiletto pumps.

Prada autumn-winter 2021

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

P.S. In this post, I happen to endorse products I genuinely love. If you end up buying something through the links, my site might earn an affiliate commission – which is always nice!

TASCHEN