Boutique-ness. Courrèges SS27

I actually really liked Drew Henry’s debut at Courrèges. This is possibly one of the most difficult houses to make sense of in the 21st century. His predecessors either went blindly too space-age or focused solely on the vinyl jacket. Nicolas Di Felice seemed to have the vision, but I always thought the brand wouldn’t mind a little more warmth.

Henry, a Phoebe Philo alum, approached it with a certain boutique-ness, which is a rarity in Paris lately, where everything must be bigger and louder. It feels like something you would look for in a small shop somewhere in France, where the owner is named Françoise or Francine, has the best style in the world, and however hard you try, you will never dress like her (but you can try!).

There were very chic-looking colour-block jackets and pea coats in a 1960s cut that wasn’t too on-the-nose; an otherwise simple look of a black T-shirt and yellow pants sharpened with a pair of driving gloves; a quirky little hat here and there. The male models wearing the signature André Courrèges A-line mini dresses? It felt like a spontaneous, not-overthought decision that just radically worked. Something is germinating in this house again. Just please give it time to bud.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Heatwave. Courrèges SS26

Nicolas Di Felice’s spring–summer 2026 collection for Courrèges was a cool exercise in modern-day inventiveness and A-line chic. By inventiveness, I mean the collection’s spotlight-stealing face coverings – which, as it turns out, are functional UV blockers. The designer encountered this kind of accessory while traveling in Thailand. In his reinterpretation, the fabric is attached to peaked caps, draped elegantly across the face, and tucked into the waistband of an unmistakably Courrèges miniskirt. André would no doubt applaud the concept – and the brand’s clientele is more than ready for any heatwave.

Interestingly, in a summer season where many designers embraced layering and coverage (like Bottega Veneta’s Louise Trotter), Di Felice’s offering feels refreshingly wearable – something you’d actually want to put on when the weather turns stiflingly hot. The collection is global-warming-ready in other ways, too: think breezy slits on sand-colored maxi dresses and leather jackets with cut-out sleeves that, from afar, appeared to be melting.

The shape of a car windshield inspired rounded solar face shields, rising from the closing looks – dresses and tops that seemed to merge futurism with functionality. And while rising temperatures are nothing to celebrate, Courrèges’s creative director managed to approach the theme with wit and a distinctly desirable sense of style.

ED’s SELECTION:

COURREGES Heritage Embroidered Crepe Mock-neck Mini Dress


COURREGES Satin Shirt


COURREGES Asymmetrical Lace-trimmed Satin Mini Dress

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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