Grunge is Back. Marc Jacobs Resort 2019

November 8, 2018November 8, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

When Marc Jacobs presented his now iconic collection for Perry Ellis in 1993, he was rather close to being burned at the stake. Unapologetically grunge-isnpired, the collection went down with the leading critics and editors, except for Grace Goddington, who styled that equally (at the time) risky editorial for Vogue, visibly very obsessed with Jacobs’ bold move. Perry Ellis fired the designer right away, and became what it is today – a boring, apparel-focused brand for men. Quite unsurprisingly, the ‘true’ grunge world hated Jacobs for doing this collection, too, with Courtney Love and Curt Kobain reportedly burning the pile of clothing Marc designed with them in mind. But that’s history.

We’re in 2018, and Courtney Love’s daughter – Frances Bean Cobain – is one of the faces of Marc Jacobs, the brand. Even more ironic is the fact that Coco Gordon Moore, the daughter of Kim Gordon (aka grunge godmother) wears Jacobs’ newest collection called, wait for it: Redux Grunge. For resort 2019, the designer brings back 26 looks he designed for the controversial Grunge collection, now with his tag on them. The looks, shot by Juergen Teller (who used to be Marc’s long-time collaborator for years until 2014 – now might be back doing the ad campaigns!), are a testament to the brazenness and timelessness of the designer’s vision. They are as relevant today as they were revolutionary (or even infamous) 25 years ago. Well, that’s true – if not Jacobs, grunge would die with its subculture and never arrive to the mainstream. Crotchet cardigans, a midriff cutout knit dress as seen first on Kristen McMenamy (now on her daughter, Lily McMenamy), rainbow striped beanies, Dr. Martens boots, a cropped blazer baby Kate Moss would wear down the runway, chokers… well, it’s all pretty much identical. I can’t say it looks fresh – it isn’t the collection’s intention in the first place. But somehow, I like it, I like that free-spirited feeling being revived right now, at this moment. Still, it’s such a stark contrast to Jacobs’ saccharine and dramatic spring-summer 2019 collection… that you might really have problems with realising that one person can both do both, rough and sweet.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki, feauturing different visuals by Juergen Teller.

Unexpected Muses

November 13, 2015November 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s clear that fashion has always had its muses. This season, the designers looked forward to all decades – and all of them had their unexpected muse that influenced the whole collection, even though she wasn’t pinned to the moodboard… here is a break-down of spring-summer 2016’s eight unconventional women who left their style DNA forever in fashion!

Kim Gordon x Marc Jacobs

Kim Gordon, the vocalist and guitarist of 80’s/90’s top grunge band, Sonic Youth, seemed to be present with her spirit in Marc Jacobs’ spring collection. Kim is in Marc’s fashion story from the very beginning – when he was at Perry Ellis, she performed at his debut show. Then, Gordon appeared to be in Jacobs’ first ever advertising campaign in 1998, photographed by Juergen Teller. The recent collection of the American designer focused on the Old Hollywood glamour, however the off-duty, grungy twist was visible in the way the models wore their dresses. They really didn’t care about them, and this was very her.

Doona Bae x Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquiere

Doona Bae, the actress of the iconic science-fiction film, Cloud Atlas, became an instant, yet very unexpected muse of Nicolas Ghesquiere. Her home-cut bob and manga inspired way of dressing reflects one of the top looks from Louis Vuitton’s collection. The cyberpunk, sci-fi aesthetic is Nicolas’ current obsession – so no wonder why Doona’s film character excites him so much. Just check out his Instagram account.

Madonna x Miu Miu

Miuccia Prada conveys, as she likes to describe, something “perverse and girlie” to Miu Miu. The recent collection, filled with sheer apron dresses, felt seductive and elusive at the same time. Just like Madonna’s style from Erotica and Human Nature period – a lot of flesh exposure, satin underwear and transparent mini dresses, as everyone can distinctly remember. Erotica, romance. I’d like to put you in a trance.

Courtney Love x Chloe

Chloe is all about freedom and care-free attitude this season. And this attitude is something you can consider as Courtney Love’s way of being – concerts, parties and fun. Take a note at the photograph above.

Meryl Streep x Celine

Lately, I have watched Woody Allen’s Manhattan film, and I am surprised to admit that whole New York used to wear Celine dresses! Just look at Meryl Streep, who played Jill – the minimal, light dresses she wore made me think of Phoebe Philo and her feminine, creative direction at the coveted Parisian brand. And, I must say – Meryl looks flawless in this film.

Sade x Anthony Vaccarello

Sade’s Soldier of Love is as timeless, as denim, which was seen in Anthony Vaccarello spring show. A simple, well-fit pair of jeans can make every outfit look effortless, and Sade has proved that throughout her career.

Diana Ross x Vetements

Demna Gvasalia would have never considered Diana Ross as his SS16 muse publicly. But the sparkling, sequin dress from the most anti-fashion and anti-corporate brand, Vetements, just screams Chain Reaction. Disco vibes alert is turnt on!

Frida Kahlo x Gucci

When I saw this dress designed by Alessandro Michele, my first thought was “Frida Kahlo would nail this one”. The meticulously embroidered tehuana dress is such a bold nod to this eccentric, Mexican artist, who totally changed the female art scene. I am in awe – if you ask me, this is the most beautiful dress of the season.

Men’s – Kurt. Saint Laurent SS16

July 2, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kurt Cobain. Courtney Love. These two names were audible during the recent Saint Laurent collection by Hedi Slimane. Hedi is famous for making crap looking clothes super expensive, but this time he went too far – the wardrobe for his SS16 men and Resort 2016 women is having a lot in common with today’s teenagers which fancy skating, alcohol and wild parties. And, Kurt Cobain eternal messy style, which might be cool only if its natural. Ripped denim (which looked so tattered that I nearly thought they were taken from a “too cool for school” person); every 14 year old’s must have chokers; chunky, slouchy cardigans. The worst? The styling, or rather lack of any styling. This what Hedi does now at Saint Laurent is purely about giving people back their clothes from adolescence , but in extreme prices. Is it fashion? Is it style? I suppose not.