Galliano at Margiela

January 3, 2015January 6, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Guys, that’s happening. John Galliano is taking over Maison Martin Margiela, and presents his first Haute Couture collection this month. Firstly, this combination felt a bit awkward to everybody – Margiela was always known for “minimalism”. But that’s just a fashion stereotype. No. Maison Martin Margiela has never been a minimal label. It’s dramatic, bold, edgy, different. The fact that real Martin Margiela never gave any interview and he is totally anonymous up to today, doesn’t mean that the label is minimalistic. Just look at their past artisanal collections – they are full of couture embroideries, one-of-a-kind textiles (for example tapestry based on La Femme du Roi by Paul Gauguin (1896) or draping made from two hanging textile prints of Mira Lunar, designed by Verner Panton) and fantastic jewellery. Maison Martin Margiela also brought a lot of unexpected accessories to their ready-to-wear – transparent plexi clutches with artificial roses inside or the famous tabi boots, which look like a horse hoof.

I am writing about this, to prove you one thing – reflecting on John Galliano’s collections in the past for Dior, his style should be perfect for Maison Martin Margiela. The fact, that he got drunk and started to say cruel things about Jews in one of Parisian caffees few years ago made him lose his own namesake label and Dior. Everybody showed Galliano their back, and from the first place everybody fell in love with Raf Simons. But forgetting the political matter which was strongly emphasized by LVMH (nobody’s sure whever these guys simply didn’t frame John into this “scandal”. Maybe they simply wanted to get rid of him?)- fashion world felt dull after Galliano’s departure. And the word minimal really matches Raf Simons – yes, his dresses are up till now the most sleepy of all during Haute Couture week in Paris.

But now, Renzo Rosso group, which owns Margiela, took over John Galliano. And hopefully, the fashion world is going to cheer up again, with this man. While waiting to see Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture SS15 by John Galliano in few days, have a look at he biggest Dior / Galliano couture moments and last season’s Margiela / Matthieu Blazy show.

Alaïa SS15

October 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Azzedine Alaia is the only designer which shows his collection whenever he wants, always out of schedule. Far from paparazzi, Anna Dello Russo and Russian “fashionistas”, the master of XX-XXI century couture showed his summer collection, which looked like lace- but in reality, was all about fine knitting. We had some beautiful tailored shirts, exotic leather jackets, safari suits and airy caftans. All based on natural colours, the collection was simple, but very less is more. In reality this collection was chic-er and more couture than any haute couture show presented lately. And again, Alaia proves us one basic fact- his fashion is timeless. The dress which was bought 10 years ago from Alaia looks as good as the one bought one year ago. This is a real genius of fashion.

Science Chic. Iris Van Herpen SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Iris Van Herpen is known for her scientific approach towards fashion. For summer, the designer was inspired with magnets- the name of the collection Magnetic Motion, which matches perfectly. A visit to the Large Handron Collider in CERN, Switzerland was for Iris the thing. There, where the atoms are divided in two, Van Herpen learnt how to “connect”. She applied the idea to manipulating the building blocks of the collection at times—for example, the shoes were “grown” with magnets and a fixative applied, each one slightly different. The pièce de résistance “halo” silhouettes at the end of the show were the physical embodiment in silicone of invisible magnetic forces. These were perfected by the Canadian architect Philip Beesley, one of Van Herpen’s frequent collaborators, who was joined this time by the Dutch artist Jólan van der Wiel.  And all of that super high-technology applied on a simple, black dress or a tunic. You must admit- the effect is ground-shaking.

Sheer Beauty. Rochas SS15

September 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Being Rochas woman nowadays might be hard- work, children, time for a nap. And the brand is known for it’s non-chalance and avantgarde. But this summer, Alessandro Dell Acqua made a little bit easier. Although we’ve got the super couture embroideries and lots of sheer beauty, there is a new way of being Rochas- wear socks with one of their confetti sling-back pumps! They are gorgeous. Just like the logo-matic R on the blouses and dresses. But for those who feel like dressing up in mostly couture level, there are those breath-taking gowns with tulle, embellished flowers and ribbons… or skirts with crotchet knits… or one of those floral coats… In other words, Dell Acqua brought us lots of different options. And the sheer elements are like magic. As for his second collection for Rochas, mister Alessandro really feels the Rochas spirit.

Belgium: Birds of Paradise at Momu

July 21, 2014July 21, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

At MoMu, the fashion museum of Antwerp, a gorgeous exhibition is happening lately. Birds of Paradise: Plumes and feathers in fashion is a tribute to the elegance and refinement of plumes and feathers used in the industry. Thanks for their beauty, fragility and value they had various connotations and were used throughout the fashion history. The exhibition (having creations by designer like Thierry Mugler, Riccardo Tisci, Ann Demeulemeester, Olivier Theykens or Miuccia Prada) addresses aspects such as luxury, chic, freedom, femininity, lightness but also modernism and dark romance. For the exhibition, British sculptor Kate MccGwire set up some of her works made of pigeon feathers to engage in an interesting dialogue with couture fashion and Irving Penn photographs. Being in Antwerp till August 24th, you must see this fashion event!