Elsa Schiaparelli created a super succesful couture label known all around the world before World War II. Known for abstractive prints, surrealistic shapes and strange head decorations, Schiaparelli was the IT brand. But, unfortunately fashion industry got so useless within the war, that even beauty of her creations stopped to make people smile. Till now, when on 20th of January of 2014 in Paris the first runway collection was presented, being designed by ex-Rochas designer, Marco Zanini. And it was a circus. The designer made Schiaparelli more a… ready-to-wear collection than Couture. Seriously- white shirt with a black blazer. Nicely decorated gowns. This is all standart for RTW. The collection was between past and now- the same prints and head-covers from Elsa’s time and the modern part, so more minimalistic- done by… well, as I remember Marco wasn’t a fan of minimalism at Rochas. So why the blast of creativity, beauty and fairy-tale couturier dreams were so tamed? Only Stella Tennant in blue hair positevely shocked me…
Couture
HC: ATELIER VERSACE SS14
In few words about Donatella Versace’s ‘fantastic’ creation for SS14’s Couture season. Taking Azzedine Alaia’s biggest hits like the Grace Jones purple gown, and making it more Barbie by putting crystals and diamonds on it is not creativity. It’s copying. I understand young designers like Olivier Rousting orAnthony Vaccarello who are inspired by Alaia- they look for new in old. But Donatella? It’s even not Gianni legacy. The collection was so horribly #rich-bish-champagne-cool… that even Lady Gaga -who took photos with every guest like Abercombie&Fitch boys on the entrance to the store- couldn’t help it. Maybe less glitter puke but more… Real Versace couture?
Maison’s Crystalizing
At the Maison Martin Margiela X Swarovski collaboration during the MMM couture show, I was shocked how much phisics and science can change fashion. These crystal elements attached to the latex boots and bracelets are not simply sticked with glue- no, on this occasion, Maison Martin Margiela did in fact debut something completely new. They worked with Swarovski and their new Crystalactite technology to create pieces of jewellery that glinted at you on the catwalk as cuffs clasped around shiny riding boots. The new innovation in the fact that it’s the first time Swarovski have fused crystal and white resin together without the use of glue creating a hybrid material that looks like it might have naturally grown that way over time. Margiela was the first ever house invited to such experiment and used inspiration from stalactites formations (hence the hybrid name) grown in caves. NOW AVAILABLE at COLETTE
Exotic. Dior SS14
Raf Simons showed again in Paris, that less is more. And more is more! In the rythms of Kylie Minouge’s Slow, the models walked the runway decorated with thousands of exotic flowers in beautiful dresses and skirts. But first the amazing venue- the Dior show for Summer 2014 was happening in the Rodin Museum in Paris, with a breath-taking view on Montmatre. In a huge campus, the guests were amazed with the smell of exotic flowers and trees from around the world- the colours and natural sunlight made it even more awesome. Coming back to clothes- well, that was something mesmerizing. The shoes stole my heart- stilettos with laces and embroidered flowers were a mix of sport and couture. Just like the collection itself. Delicate, but sporty sweaters were worn with tulle skirts; the suits were revisted thanks to prints on the back; typical Summer dresses were embroidered with flowers. In other words, it was something very fragile and without pretence.Possibly, this is the most beautiful collection of this Summer season… Bravo, Raf!
Fairytale. Erdem SS14
SS14 for Erdem meant much more than a large dose of bikinis and girlie dresses- it was all about serious British couture but is strongly visible on these dresses! That was an awesome collection. Erdem, the one that always masters the floral prints each season, went further, and created this- a beautiful collection for princesses. Embroideries, laces, feathers, silk… Everything that was kept in black & white and delicate shades of yellow. The collection (just like Marc Jacobs) broke all the so far created rules for the season… Making a totally new one. And I would call it- Urban Couture!
Design & Culture by Ed 