Craig Green‘s “unwrapped” collection, which was presented few hours ago in London, is a good start to the autumn-winter 2016 season for men. The first looks were all about olive-green outerwear and khaki combats; then, the wardrobe of a Craig Green guy showed it’s real inner-self, which was previously obscured under layers, and layers of utilitarian-like textiles. The clothes, which were made of leather patches transformed into poetic, voluminous jackets, airy tops and over-sized culottes – and all of that appeared to be tied up with white ropes. It’s interesting to see, how a young designer from London reinterprets menswear – and as you see, this collection is unusual not only because it lacks the “men clichés”, but it also represents Craig as a designer who can smartly push his creative vision.
Craig Green, one of the menswear designer of MAN LCM in London, showed his new show yesterday. Known for wooden structures and dyed costumes worn by men, Green changed his fashion perspective into something more ready-to-wear. His AW14 collection was all about hand-painted utilitarian coats and harness accessories. The models went down the runway in long, oversized coats, reassembling a pilgrim or something like that… The collection felt a bit mysterious and harsh. But- the clothes were beautiful. Dark, hand painted cotton robes and trousers are the new fashion ceremonials created by the fresh face of London menswear scene, Craig Green!
Well I was really excited about the SS14 Collections for man- and mostly for London ones. You know, Gucci for man is always about coats and shirts. Dior is black and white. Dolce and Gabbana is always into Sicily, etc. So here we are in London, the town where MOST talented young designers do their jobs. This season I was waiting for J.W. Anderson. TRAGEDY. I will not show this on blog, because this is just to terrible. If you think of Anderson this season, you see a boy in a skirt and in a midriff. Yyyyuuu. Who also didn’t do best was Sibling. First collection was super cool with all these knitts and so on. Now there are less knitts. And nothing else. But the designers I introduce here impressed me. Some less, some more. I am insanely in love with Richard Nicoll prints that are SO GOOD! Craig Green was also superb. TOPMAN… You will see. And Chris Kane… Aw, LOVE IT!CHRISTOPHER KANE_____ Chris is getting even better and better in his print skills. He mixes elegance with colour just as at Woman’s and Man’s. He is a real shooting star of this fashion year. These 3-D, structural human face t-shirts are so amazing with the strong colours. In reality, I see that Kane uses some kind of high tech in his clothes, because this cool coat with “waves” doesn’t look like normal cotton. Same as this yellow tracksuit. A wish. I am already up to that red face tee!TOPMAN DESIGN_____ That was like Isabel Marant, but for man. Just slightly. The flower embroiderments on sweaters and shirts looked cosmic with these shades. Still thinking if I hate it or love it. Maybe I would wear this black shirt that comboys wore on their mustangs… But only for a carnaval!
ALAN TAYLOR______ A absolvent of LCM, just as Craig Green. Looks bad, but it is still original idea. And lets hold to that. A linen, gray top with attached elegant linen, gray jacket. It would look together (one on other) better and stylish, but not UNIQUE. And should be always UNIQUE if we talk ’bout London.AGI & SAM_____ A pair of designers thought of casual clothing in a colourful edition. I can’t say I am really shocked or something- This is all about perfect Britisch tailorship with a mix of modernity and a colour splash. My one hundred favourite is the orange coat. So summerish and my style!ASTRID AGREN_____ This girl knows (or maybe not) what a man should wear every summer. Mint colours, loose tracksuits and of course her biggest bestseller… white lace t-shirt. Well. Would love to wear this mint sport suit, but would look bad in this lace. And I don’t thik that men look god in lace- oppositely, lace is for women. I don’t know how modern time it should be, but for me lace is for ladies. And I don’t like it. This is visibly a gender mixing that paradoxally I like,. Yes I wrote that lace for men is a bad idea, but at the same time I think that it is always good to experiment! For now bravo to Astrid!RICHARD NICOLL_____ That was the best London collection of this season. Richard Nicoll. His womenswear is a bit boring, but menswear… SO COOL! The snake prints with these men taken from ancient painting look like a collage of Linder Sterling. The varsity jacket and sweatshirt look really good with all these sweatpants… Nothing more to say. Just a wish for more collections like this and… my size available on MrPorter.com!CRAIG GREEN______ This is a human art. The texture “installations” that Craig Green is known for are just awesomely mind blowing. It looks like if a colour splash exploded from a body of a man. Last season it was all dark, but now the surrealistic textures are all dyed with ink… If someone prefers something darker, Craig thought of a faceless serial killer (my idea!). This model look really scary without his “face” but bound with dark fabric and junky sweater with leather patchworks. Just where is his knife? In these junky-patchworked-sweatpants? My total thought of the collection- OUT. OF. THIS. WORLD!