Four Brands, One Runway. Section 8, Creatures of The Wind, CDLM & Vaquera SS20

This is a long post, as we’ve got four brands on one catwalk. Yes, really! But seeing designer solidarity in New York makes sense: the schedule got tighter, the locations seem to be worlds apart, the costs for show venues are rising (unless you’re showing on a street, which becomes more and more popular this season) and catching everybody’s attention IRL and on social media is an art in its own rights today. Section 8, Creatures of The Wind, CDLM (which is actually by Creatures of The Wind designers) and Vaquera, all in one place, under one roof.

Lets start with Section 8, which I’ve discovered just now. The label first appeared as an anonymous collective back in 2017, staging its debut at a tiny gallery in Chinatown. Since then, stylist Akeem Smith has stepped out of the shadows as the label’s designer and has slowly been edging the brand into the spotlight. For his spring-summer 2020, models came down the runway with second-skin fishnet body stockings layered under body-hugging crop tops and butterfly-shaped bras that were cut from the body. Smith isn’t afraid to mine complicated sociopolitical subject matter for inspiration (the brand takes its name from the U.S. government’s low-income housing voucher system, by the way). As part of his research the designer visited the Jim Crow Museum, whose archive of racial propaganda is now being used as an educative tool to promote social justice. To wit, the bustled silhouette of the midi- and maxi-length skirts were a nod to the turn of the last century, when segregation laws were first enforced. Though the historical references were anything but literal, they resonated on a deeper level in the context of an all-black cast.

Creatures of The Wind and CDLM are two labels that show together, even in the same looks, without distinguishing who’s who. About a year ago, Chris Peters of Creatures of the Wind launched CDLM, with a plan to work in a more sustainable manner, focusing on upcycling and repurposing, picking washed and worn tie-dyed tees with sun-bleached vintage cotton nightdresses. Now Shane Gabier, Peters’s design- and life partner whom he cofounded Creatures of The Wind with, is also working with him on CDLM, and each label is operating with the same eco-minded concept. For spring-summer 2020, the designers offer striped rugby shirts stitched together to form long dresses, slouchy, XXL shoulder bags worked up out of deadstock croc-stamped leather and jackets made out of vintage denim patches. The way they style their looks is as inspiring as the sustainability aspect behind the garments. There are no specific references or inspirations behind the clothes. But they look really cool, and I’m fine with that.

Vaquera’s line-up was the most charismatic and bold of all the four brands, but by that I don’t mean it was the best. Patric DiCaprio, Claire Sullivan and Bryn Taubensee were inspired by life and its downs, and knowing their always-exaggerated way of doing things, they played with different archetypes and cliches that affiliate with daily life in the Big Apple. “It’s mostly about being let down in different ways: on Valentine’s Day, by the fashion industry—by New York,” DiCaprio said before the show. Taubensee continued: “We’ve learned it’s empowering to be frustrated and disheartened. In this new collection, you’ll see more of the old Vaquera, where we’re just like, ‘Fuck it, let’s just do it.’” Pin-stripe suits were cut and shaped into bustiers and big head-pieces (bye, corporate life!); over-sized slip-dresses and the bride’s dress in black were all about romance, messed up by dark humor; the big heart ‘dress’ looked like the previously mentioned take on Valentine’s Day and the moment you really l ove(or hate) that cheesy, heart-shaped box of chocolates. Vaquera likes being literal, loud and sometimes even ridiculous. That’s why I adore this brand: it doesn’t take fashion too serious. It actually mocks it.

Four collections on one runway might feel like too much. But seeing Section 8, Creatures of The Wind, CDLM and Vaquera together shows that the young and niche designers in New York have a viewpoint, a stance and do what they really want to (especially breaking the industry’s rules).

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Back to Life. Creatures of The Wind AW19

Ok, that’s something new: two brands in one collection, with a feeling of anonymity – like ‘what’s what’? Chris Peters and Shane Gabier decided to show their Creatures of The Wind and Peters’ other label, CDLM, together. While everything should have a brand and a logo seen from the distance these days, Chris and Shane made the viewer take guesses. Isn’t it better to forget the labels, and look at the garments objectively, without knowing the tag? Wouldn’t our buying choices change dramatically? In case of Peters and Gabier we had a line-up of very, very good clothes. And I’m objective! The designers are known for their recycle and upcycle practices – they use existing vintage and deadstock fabrics. They can do wonders with those. Examples? A ’30s slip-dress, a man’s tux collapsed into a coat, ’40s fake furs clashed into one (ok, Martin Margiela did that decades ago, but still this idea looks so brilliant), another coat that had its deconstructed lapels made from a football merch scarf… Then, the look I had to look at twice to be sure I’m not wrong. A blanket scarf worn with a white shirt, navy pants and white paint splattered caban boots were modeled by a woman who rarely stands in front of the camera today, but has influenced American fashion like no other: Vogue’s fashion editor, Tonne Goodman. She’s the person who created the so-called ‘sporty elegance’ look that’s all about reality and relevance. Which actually is the style ethos that got quite naturally inherited by such designers as Chris and Shane. Tonne is also deeply committed to sustainability – and, as visible, a friend of the brand. She looked as if she was on the street, off to the office or the next fashion show in her typical ‘its my job’ attitude, not on an actual runway. That’s why I enjoyed Creatures of The Wind (and CDLM) this season: clothes for life and pretty much any moment in life.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Two Faces. Creatures of The Wind SS18

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Although not much was going on at Creatures of The Wind‘s spring-summer 2018 fashion show, one specific piece of clothing stole the spotlight. The ‘stoner’ shearling coat, embroidered with cannabis leaves all over it. Looking back at Shane Gabier and Chris Peters‘ creative career, their Creatures of The Wind women is under a constant style/mental dilemma. Is she an edgy, hippie girl who adores eclecticism? Or is she an already established New Yorker career-woman with a thing for ‘arty’? This season, there’s a compromise, and the cannabis motif is a sign that the girl has a wilder side, while wearing office-ready white dresses or empowering leather trenches that had been re-dyed and painted.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki (I kind of see that coat being worn around tipsy Amsterdam…).

A Lady with A Twist. Creatures of The Wind AW16

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Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters kick off the New York Fashion Week on Design & Culture by Ed with one of their most mature collections to date. Not only because it feels like the Creatures of The Wind girl has changed into a woman – but also, the identity of the eponymous label seems to be much more recognizable. For the autumn-winter 2016 season, the designer duo staged a feminine, yet quirky outing of V-neck dresses made from lace and textile patches, mink coats and to die for slip-tops with autumnal leave prints. The collection blurs between playful Couregges-like polished leather mini-dresses and much more toned, mature pencil skirts and turtlenecks – meanwhile the geometrical jackets, as the brands’ Instagram feed suggests, are all about Ettore Sottsass graphic, visual vision. Good to see that the boys behind Creatures of The Wind show off their other, much more lady-like side – and present something infinitely New York. Both eclectic, and individual.

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Eclecticism. Creatures of The Wind SS16

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Let the fashion month begin! Let the New York Fashion Week start! Let the season of spring-summer 2016 be already in our heads (as if we were planning what short we are going to wear in June)! Creatures of The Wind is the first shot – Shane Gabier‘s and Christopher Peters‘ label, which never disappoints to mix prints and layers in an intriguing way. Their SS16 woman is all about eclecticism.  Embroidered floral prints, fish-net tights, Jacquard and embellished, all-American stars, that appear quite often in their collections – an impressive collection of various themes. The styling played a great role for Creatures of The Wind, too – red t-shirt worn under a spaghetti dress; 40’s inspired masculine-collared shirt styled with an over-sized blazer; a kind of LA-band attitude was felt in that mix of military coat and floral mini-skirt. The model casting for the show was truly diverse (Ysaunny Brito, Amilna Estevao), which might just foreshadow more models of colours in the next shows of New York!

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70’s Bohemia. Creatures of The Wind AW15

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One of our main influences was looking at the 20s through a 70s lens,” said one of the designers at Creatures of The Wind, Shane Gabier. The palette was rich with opulent Art Deco hues – especially the gold olive, which Gabier said “has reappeared in different decades, different places and in different subcultures.” The all-American collection (the stoles had free-life stars on them) had lots of metaphors having something to do with the country’s history – pilgrims, farmers, New York flea markets and even, the Steve Jobs turtlenecks. And all of that, mixed in a cool bohemia like mash-up. I love the use of fur and prints – the frivole skirt with monochrome checks is amazing, isn’t it? Just like the shoes, which really get hot, keeping in the mind that the brand starts its strong expansion.

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Smile, America!

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Vintage. Creatures of The Wind Pre-Fall 2015

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Creatures of The Wind always produce collections which are nostalgic, but in a nice, fresh way. For pre-fall 2015, boys of CoTW brought a cool air of vintage- grandma’s fur coat, fabrics brought from Asian countries, warm wool caftans that used to be your dad’s bath robe- all of that felt beautiful and very deep. Although many things in this collection seem to be very different, I bet nothing was random for the designers. Definitely, the most heart-breaking piece of this collection is the long sequined skirt with those blue elements- India, Myanmar? Or maybe something totally different? Surely that’s a long, warm story to tell. Simply, interpret this collection the way you want to.

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Traveler. Creature of The Wind SS15

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What I always love about Creatures of The Wind is their fresh view at slightly kitsch prints and patterns. This time, they made the granny floral curtain look not excessive, but rather simple and delicate- this print was used on the coats and even on the bras. We also had some intereting embellishments and stripes, shown in over-sized pants and tops. Full of funny fringes, traveler jackets and “the perfect escape” oriental smokings / pajamas, this beautiful collection is what I would surely want to see on lazy beach vacations somewhere on Bali or Biarritz!

These photos from Australia are by the lovely Kinga Burza.

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NYFW: Newcomers

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New York is a place where young fashion talents easily get a chance of using their five minutes… So here is my selection of favourite (and most quirky) collections of the NYFW AW14 newcomers:

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RODEBJER: Mystique, sexy and a bit elusive. This is what Rodebjer evaluated into. Full of warm colours and shirling fur, the collection seemed to be very comfortable, but at the same time different from the others.

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TOME: New York’s moment fave minimalism crush- beige dresses, pink satin skirts and gloves plus all the amazing ruffles. Tome is surely one of the designers we want to watch out for next few months…

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CREATURES OF THE WIND: We love them because of their illusions kept in clothes. A wood peacoat? Liquid yellow sweater? Totally yes. And those denim dresses looks also great. COTW is a cool mix of thing.

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ROSIE ASSOULIN: She is on everyone’s mouth- her simple, comfortable clothes fur of practical uses are ruling for the moment. And the architectural gowns that make silhouette look beautiful within their stripes!

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RUFFIAN: This label is strange. But still fun. And the medieval topic for AW14 was really catching your eye after seeing so much of black & white!