Childish Haphazard. Molly Goddard SS16

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She left her M.A. course at Central Saint Martins, where she’d studied under the late professor Louise Wilson, a year early to focus on putting together the spring 2015 collection. Her hope was that it would help her get a job. While she always wanted to have her own label, she assumed she’d work for someone else first. However, her real dream came true. Molly Goddard is one of the most exciting and fresh talents from London due to her secret weapon – the super cute, sheer tulle dresses. Inspired by the frilly outfits her mother and grandmother made for her as a child, Goddard gets her ideas from old family photographs and children’s knitwear patterns, and visiting Portobello Market, Alfies Antiques and the Retro Clothing Exchange in Notting Hill Gate. Her spring-summer 2016 presentation had some naive, hand embroidered skirts, checked crop-tops and of course, the signature pink dress which looks great with denim trousers or with nothing under. The chaotic and childish haphazard of putting clothes together is also the thing that makes Molly’s label so… enchanting. “At that age, you don’t even care what you’re wearing—and that’s quite a nice thing,” she says. “You’re wearing a big dress, then you put on your mum’s shoes and then you put your favorite T-shirt on top. When my sister was born—she’s three years younger than me—I used to wear all her clothes. When I was three, or older, I was wearing these tiny little dresses with my entire bum slipping out the bottom. I was just obsessed.”

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Cute Pie. Miu Miu AW15

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One word that describes Miu Miu for fall is “cute“. Floral jewellery; little toddler shirts; pastel-coloured coats and dresses. Slightly naive and at the same time sexy. Miuccia Prada brought within the collection some spectacular aligator coats and really eye-catchy tweed skirts which seem to land the must-have status. Prada decided to play with fake—something something which seem to be artificial. This wasn’t just a collection of animal prints and patterns, rich in embossed leopard print with perverse backless “pinafore” dresses with big  cartoon buttons. Miuccia states – you can have any color you like as long as it isn’t natural.

Instinct? I like that word,” said Miuccia Prada after her show. For indeed, like all designers, she is led by her internal instincts, and these were animal ones on exposure today. “I wanted to put things together in a naive way, not caring, always wrong, with that attitude of instinct. It started with the mutation of ostrich in Prada, the genetic modification, the idea of a new species.

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And this is how we end this very busy and buzzy fashion month… au revoir.

Cute Love. Simone Rocha SS15

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I hear Vanessa Paradis Pourtant when I look at Simone Rocha’s SS15 collection. It’s so romantic, oh my! Ad cute! Those model’s curly hair styled with these fur trimmed broques and fragile dresses feel so truly naive and sublime at the same time… Rocha has always been ambitious with her textiles, but what felt new this season was the sensitivity and specificity with which she deployed them: a light touch of embroidery on pink mesh, the graphic counterpoint of floral embellishment on a sheer white sheath, that lurid marabou snaking around a dress of silvery brocade. The collection, having a lot of themes, felt all the time truly girlie and interesting (my heart belongs to those shoes with fur!) with those rose appliqued sheer dresses. Surely, this will be a retail challenge- but Simone’s fashion is always best-sellng at London’s Dover Street Market, so no worries!

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Croisiere. Miu Miu Resort’15

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Ladies and gentlemen, here is the first ever runway show of Miu Miu’s resort 2015! And I must say: it was lovely. As always, in case of Miu Miu. The collection was a 60’s print remix with Brady Bunch vibes and fluid-like chiffon scarves. The prints were very floral, kept in blue, green and red, while the embroideries looked very chic and girly. But what gave it all a cute spark was the hair, which was curly and looked perfect with all those baby-doll mini dresses. In other words, it was all about the Miu Miu pretty girl which smells peonies and strawberries (in my imagination)… Gorgeous, Miuccia!

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