Men’s – Weary Warriors. Yohji Yamamoto AW15

January 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Violent Darkness. The make-up faux scars on the faces. The winter guys from Yohji Yamamoto are not the ones you want to mess up with. That was a very classical collection courtesy of Yamamoto – “black says it all: don’t bother me, I don’t bother you” is the most famous quote and motto the designer cultivates each year. Black blazers, black pants, black shirts. Poetic, mysterious. And aggressive thanks to the imprint of fighting on model’s faces. Except the darkness, Yohji showed gleaming velvet suits with marble prints to make all more philosophical.

Men’s – Full Frontal. Rick Owens AW15

January 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Let’s go straightly to the topic – Rick Owens went full frontal for his AW15 show. Why? The tank top / dresses (however you call them) has holes placed… yep, there. Although it’s not that visible on the photos, some models had their penises spotted. Well… Hussein Chalayan showed women’s pubic hair in his dresses few years ago. But that really stole the spotlight. And Rick earned the ultimate status of the 2015’s biggest provoker. I mean, I don’t see myself wearing nudity in thoes places just like Rick offers. Definitely, that might not be safe for your health! This is a big field of discussion at the moment…”Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture,” Owens said backstage. “It packs a punch. It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s a corporate world! This was our private moment.” If talking of the clothes, most them revealed the Adam’s apple. But I thinkt that the knitted “thing” seems to look warm… and surely cold-defending.

#TBT: Rick Owens Fall 2001

November 27, 2014July 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

One of the first Rick Owens collections. Signature floor-sweeping dresses, slim tops and sweat-pants. It just proofs that Rick keeps his style up to date.

Ania Kuczynska AW14

October 23, 2014July 18, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

As you might now, I am really in love with Ania Kuczynska’s designs. Her Warsaw-based label, which is the most coveted in Poland, is a beautiful mixture of nonchalance and minimalism. And, oppositely to other Polish designers, Ania is not concentrating on the so-called “sponsored wall” or stars which should be invited for the show. No. For her, the most important are clothes and atmosphere, which is usually, modern and elegant. This time, for AW14 season (yep, sounds strange while the SS15 collection round have just ended), Kuczynska took us to the iconic Bristol Hotel, where she presented a dark, elusive collection full of sheer dresses and heavy, floor sweeping coats. The clothes, which had feminine, but simple cuts, reminded the Night Porter silhouettes. The name of this mysterious collection, LAVA, was possibly all about the fluid-like heaviness of the dark materials, while the quiet stars felt like a good way of having a dreamy night. Big bravo for this mesmerising collection because it (just like the whole concept of the label) truly out-stands the Polish fashion scene. Backstage photos via i-D Poland.

Patti on Ann

October 18, 2014January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Shadows fell on the girl who had recorded Horses. At a time of deep loneliness she received a package from Antwerp—an exquisite white box tied with black ribbon—like a photograph by Robert Mapplethorpe. She set it on her worktable by the window, laid the ribbons aside, and raised the lid. There, beneath layers of immaculate tissue, were three white shirts. She unfolded and spread them in the light, examining every stitch. I understood that I was not alone. When at long last I stepped back upon the stage, the girl of Flanders brushed the dust from my shoulder, adjusted my collar, and laced my boots.

Patti Smith on Ann Demeulemeester.