Japan Noir. Alexander McQueen SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen brings new mood to the brand- Japan and it’s more sensual, darker site. So what we saw? Leather kimono coats with embroidered florals; super high shoes without heels (you know, Daphne Guiness); the models walked with faces encircled in black lacquer frames, courtesy of the ingenious makeup-ist Pat McGrath; everything was tightly belt-up and strengthen up with harness bustiers. So now wonder why Sarah thought of Japan this season. After he travel to this beautiful country full of cherry-blossom trees and traditional Ryokan houses, she created a sexy, but mindful collection. There was a maniacal attention to detail in the pearls that seeded the flowers on a skirt of ruffled chiffon, but it would be pleasing to think that this collection represented a new perspective for Burton. At least the history here was truly personal—or as personal as that grab bag of her souvenirs from her Japanese trips. And the face-off between geisha and samurai would seem like the very embodiment of the savage beauty that nestles at the dark heart of Alexander McQueen.

Joan D’Arc. Givenchy SS15

October 3, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Well. Riccardo Tisci AGAIN comes back to his roots, where he was all about stripes and graphical prints. And the harsh sexuality. I hoped this will never come back… but it did. The summer collection, which is totally not for summer, is all about leather, Jesus, heavy metal and, as Riccardo said, Joan d’Arc. Maybe there was something about Joan d’Arc in this collection… the provocation? The over-use of crosses and Christian symbols? I think this Madonna-ish trend died together with punk. The collection felt so, so weak, even dough the embroideries are certainly breath-taking. The collection didn’t introduce nothing new- it made woman look over-sexy and over-bossy. The last few seasons were pretty good, but this broke the timeline. And seeing the Kim and Kanye family ‘like all the time’ during the show looks seriously faux pas. We need a fresh breath, Tisci.

Men Behind

July 27, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

While searching 2002 in fashion, I found the first runway collection by Rick Owens. The mood of Owens’ presentation was somber—a dark, raw space and a sound track of Alice Cooper and Iggy Pop—but the clothes were gently sexy and even cozy. Not one for color (despite his indigenous climate), Owens worked in grays, chalky white, black and taupe. Long clinging dresses were paired with fuzzy ankle-length sweater coats, while soft, baggy corduroy pants looked great with the distressed leather jackets the designer is known for.But all those greys and forms reminded me of something- the latest Haider Ackermann collection for women. His AW14 was totally like the description of Rick’s in 2002, but a bit more romantic and soft. I love both of these, and I can’t say that Haider copied Rick- rather, he was inspored by him and his first dark fashion moment.

Belgium: A.F. Vandevorst

July 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

A.F. Vandevorst is a brand I knew before, but I have never been too interested in it. Until I visited Belgium. First of all, you need to know these two simple equation: A.F. = Filip Arickx, while Vandevorst = Ann Vandevorst. And these two are quiet, cool couple, which created a Belgian, red-crossed brand which may be easily spotted thanks to it’s characteristics. Over the years, the duo’s influences have ranged from S&M-tinged clinical uniforms (such as the SS 2007 nun habits, SS 2008 PVC trenchcoats, FW 2014 army cargo, and their signature red cross logo) to German artists such as Joseph Beuys and choreographer Pina Bausch, and a week spent with the Samburu tribe in Kenya (SS 2012). Looking at their archives, I am impressed- the brand is so sophisticated and interesting. But it always keeps it’s specific, dark-romance style.