Marques Almeida / Advent 2014

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December 19: Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are a lovely couple which makes the most eccentric denim (and not only) fashion in the world. Playing with volumes, colours and vibes, since the beginning Marques Almeida has been acclaimed by fashion editors as the new “go-to” brand of the year. My favourite thing that they did for 2014, was their crazy, very strong AW14 collection, where the designers had fun with fur stoles! Marta and Paulo also created a “spark”, making their signature fabric get really important on the London fashion scene.

Faustine Steinmetz

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The world of denim, you’ve got a problem. I introduce you to Faustine Steinmetz. In her label, each fabric is solely handwoven by one person using one of our traditional handlooms.
And, each piece is meticulously made by hand, with some pieces taking over a week to weave. “In our East London studio we spin, dye and weave all our own fabrics. We reproduce iconic pieces, the kind everyone has or has had in their wardrobe at one stage, except we make them all by hand.” Faustine Steinmetz creates and designs denim which isn’t really denim- it’s a new apparel vision, but on upper level. For AW14, we’ve got trousers which visually look like jeans, tartan dresses and lovely tops. Thoughts?

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Men’s. Indie Rock. Yohji Yamamoto SS15

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LOST written in french as PERDU was written on the backs of the models at Yohji Yamamoto’s new collection. The collection was one of the most commercial throughout the seasons: missing a bit the manga coats or gorgeous trousers I would enjoy wearing, we had pajama jacquards covered in a faded motif of old, stained-glass rosettes; faux bleach splotches stitched onto suiting; jailhouse-striped pants that appeared counterintuitively gentlemanly. The denim grouping was most interesting of all. Yohji said he was tired of seeing jeans that looked “out of fashion.” His solution: trompe l’oeil holes, roomy gaucho pants, and a dramatic denim cape. Not that I am disapointed with this collection, but feel it’s a little break for Yohji Yamamoto- and that we soon will see something good.

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Attitude? No Problem!

MarquesAlmeida_SS14_0206_PRINTMarques Almeida is not a denim label, while it’s not totally a fashion label. With it’s Portuguese roots, London studio and denim love, the designers behind Marques Almeida know what’s buzzing. Their SS14 was a phenomen during the September LFW, and the AW14 was already the hot ticket during the recent Winter season. What really makes Almeida interesting, is that they use denim fabric not in trousers (although their pair of jeans a real fashion experience) but in everything- bras, shoes, sweaters… But denim is not only their favourite fabric. During SS14, we saw a calf leather mini-dress, and the AW14 was mostly made entirely from velvet and cute, shaggy fur (that was covering the sneakers. And they look extremely cool). The Marques Almeida is full of attitude… and it’s the new cool label from London!1-Marques-Almeida-AW14AW14
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