Buly 1803

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Starting in the late 18th century, the famed “Bully”, established in 1803 on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, made a name for himself (which he then wore with a double consonant). At the turn of the 19th century, perfumers were still the heirs of the craftsmen from the Ancien Régime, and the keepers of their trade secrets. The vogue of perfumes followed in the wake of a fresh openness to the world and to its novel, sometimes exotic flowers – as with Joséphine de Beauharnais, who imported to France and acclimatized new olfactory species and audacities. Bully welcomed the advances of science and cosmetics to formulate his own inventions in form of perfumes and scented oils. Among these, his remarkable skin care products achieved lasting fame. Throughout the Golden Century of beauty, which witnessed the invention of the first formulations of modern cosmetics and perfumery, the ‘officine’ gradually established itself as a trend-setter.

Today, Buly 1803 is reborn in Paris, on rue Bonaparte 6 in the sixth arrondissement, with a different spelling and a refreshed concept. Visiting their boutique was like entering a cabinet de curiosités, falling hard for the opulent marble furniture, antique illustrations on the walls, and Japanese porcelain flacons costing 3000 euros and up. Buly 1803 is a true gem and it’s quite unbelievable to find brands like this in our world of fast, mass-consumption.

Discover Buly 1803 finest products: Buly 1803 Pommade Concrète balmBuly 1803 Campagne D’italie candle & Buly 1803 tortoiseshell comb.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki

Panama in Berlin

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Why here? Everything about Panama makes it the hottest restaurant of the moment, or even… a cult place. Hidden on Potsdamer Straße (a stone throw from Andreas Murkudis), the two-story space has been designed by Karoline Butzert and Nora Witzigmann. It breathes with contemporary art, and the artistic contributions, like Julius von Bismarck’s photographs or bone-shaped neon by Kerim Seiler, lets you feel like in an art gallery.

What to eat? The idea behind Panama’s menu is to share your food with others. That’s why it’s recommended to order about 5 different dishes per person, to discover the restaurant’s unique cuisine. From German saltwater shrimp with blueberries to potato from fire served with Iberico ham and herring, Panama offers a wide range of varying tastes and ingredient compositions. Don’t forget to try ‘Panama’ empanadas with sesame ponzu!

The atmosphere is… somewhere between extraordinary and casual. Although it’s a perfect spot for an evening with friends, every visit to Panama ends up as an experience. Panama is never empty, and you must be truly lucky if you catch a table at seven, without booking in advance.

Potsdamer Straße 91 / Berlin

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Some photos are by Edward Kanarecki, others via the restaurant’s site.

East. Ania Kuczyńska AW16

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Ania Kuczyńska is Poland’s most recognizable designer for a reason. After years of working in the industry, her signature style is distinct. Her fashion is consistent, and that’s why she’s leading in Polish fashion game. Aware of her ‘trademark’ pieces, like her take on the little black dress, or Warsaw’s street-style favourite Shanghai totes, Kuczyńska’s eponymous attitude is beloved by her intellectual customers. But don’t think she’s resting on laurels.

The newest autumn-winter 2016 look-book (presented off the schedule), entitled ‘East’, might be dubbed as one of her most refined collections to date. At the first glance it’s very stern, definitely moving away from girlie sweetness which we know so well from Ania’s past collections. Mostly kept in black, with contrasting denim accents, the collection glances at the craftsmanship of the past. With nods to traditional ‘dress-code’ of Polish noblemen from 16th-17th century, AW16 is a contemporary look on elegance of historic silhouettes.  Some of the names of new season’s items – for example ‘Baikal’ for a bomber jacket – make it visible that the collection is rooted in Slavic references, which aren’t too cartoonish or literal. The designer’s vision is always open for interpretation, leaving some mystery for the viewer. I, for instance, feel a connection between those incredible black coats and turtlenecks, and Paweł Pawlikowski’s masterpiece, Ida – a story of a nun who discovers her Jewish origins, and seeks the truth about her family. The black-and-white aura of this film goes hand in hand with Kuczyńska’s  elusive woman.

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Holiday Cafe

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The amateurs of niche magazines are certainly familiar with the famous Holiday Magazine. In the years 1946-1977 the magazine covered the distant voyages of writers like Truman Capote. It also employed renowned photographers to present their personal perspective on the favourite holiday spots of America’s rich. After a long absence, the magazine was revived in 2014 by Atelier Franck Durand. The Parisian artistic studio gave a new meaning to the cult magazine. Focusing these days to a large extent on fashion, the magazine grew into a small capsule collection of clothes fit for travelling and… to a cafe in the quiet 16th arrondissement of Paris.

Yves Saint Laurent once said that “Fashions fade, style is eternal”. This is definitely true for Holiday Cafe, which doesn’t even try to compete with the most fashionable Parisian places. The interior is quite ordinary, but despite that, or maybe actually because of that, it has its own remarkable style. Slategray tablecloths, an intimate garden with a view on the old buildings, wooden finishings – they were all conceived by Franklin Azzi, an architect who has been working with Durand for many years.

As for the menu, Holiday Cafe focuses on simple French cuisine, adding some sharp Japanese flavours. Daniel de la Falaise, the chef and author of the menu suggests trying his personal version of croque-demoiselle, an updated version of the classic croque-madame. The menu offers quail eggs with fine herbs salad, apple mousse with blueberries and strawberry torte with whiskey from Yamazaki distillery. But there is also a portion of white asparagus served with home-made mayonnaise, the well-known foie gras and a selection of fromages from the French craftsmen. Holiday Cafe accurately describes itself as “an eclectic assemblage of necessary luxuries: simple dishes of the highest quality”. (Note: I wrote this post for Usta Magazyn in Polish. Initial version is here.)

Avenue de Versailles 192 / Paris

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Zorza Bistro

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Zorza Bistro is a perfect example of today’s casual dining place, which attracts you with every detail – and if you don’t go inside right away, you feel really, really guilty. Social media is a dominating factor in today’s gastronomy. The first time I saw this place on Instagram (@zorzabistro), filled with stylish photos of bruschettas and cold soups, I knew I’m writing it down in my Warsaw agenda – and as I love well-executed branding matters, like typography, this was indeed a heaven for me. Visual identity of Zorza was developed by Kaja Gadomska, graphic designer, who decided to create something that would match the classical, yet very contemporary aesthetic of the restaurant. Just like her bold logo design, the interior is kept in a softly art deco manner, with brass tables, marble columns and preserved, stone floors. The cuisine at Zorza is diverse, spanning from roasted artichokes and hot dogs with home-made sausage to meat-stuffed cabbage and coated chicken in Asian sauce. If you’re still unsure whether you need to go to Zorza, then there’s one more, great feaure of this place – you can sit outside, and have a view on Warsaw’s brilliant street style.

Żurawia 6 / Warsaw

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