The NG Day

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10th of May – this means, it’s Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s birthday! Let’s celebrate it, by looking back at his biggest moments at Balenciaga, and now at Louis Vuitton – the time-line proves that this guy is a real fashion visionaire. Wishing him all the best!

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AW01 – the “all black” collection. Nicolas showed his amazing tailoring skills through elegant jackets, coats and blazers.

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AW02 – One of my favourite collections ever. He showed soft, oversized sweaters and jackets, and a small group of colorful knee-length collage dresses apparently influenced by Cubist paintings.

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AW04 – This shearling jacket from 2004 is my dream.

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SS06 by Nick Knight

SS06 – The jacket from this collection photographed by Nick Knight.

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Nicolas and his friend, Charlotte Gasinsbourg, in AW10.

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SS11 – Campaign photographed by Inez & Vinoodh.

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AW12 – Cosmic sweatshirts.

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AW14 – Arrival at Louis Vuitton.

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AW14

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Louis Vuitton SS15 photographed by Juergen Teller.

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Jeanne Damas in SS15‘s corduroy trousers and bra.

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AW15 – Fernanda Ly on the runway.

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Resort 2016 – An extravagant show in Palm Springs, California.

TBC.

Objects of Desire

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I am in love with the brand I am going to present you now – it’s Crista Seya. I mean, there are many labels which perfectly mix minimal with luxury. The Row, Lemaire, Hermes are all known to us! But surely, Crista Seya might be counted to that list. Her collections are divided in four editions, and in each the clothes are constantly available on request. Beautifully tailored shirts, awesome camel pantaloons and khaki ponchos – a dream. The white shoes from series 3 (a lot of normcore beige) are handmade in Buenos Aires, made from so-called kid leather and a cool “cut-out-edge” heel. The clothes from Crista Seya are fulfilled with everyday objects. Artisan vases, leather horse-necklaces, hand-dyed cushions. I mean, what’s better than a label which knows how to make your wardrobe and your home?

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Jan-Jan Van Essche

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Born and raised in Antwerp, Jan-Jan Van Essche menswear brand blends ethnic tradition with western characteristics- knitted ponchos, wool hats and loose attitude. Together with his partner Piëtro Celestina, whom Jan-Jan met during his fashion studies at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, he runs Atelier Solarshop just a few blocks away from their  loft where they live and work.The former solarshop carries Jan-Jan’s pieces and vintage treasures that reflect his style and mood. In Jan-Jan’s latest collection, entitled INITE, he shows his signatures- lazy blazers, pants and non-chalantly worn scarves. Also, we’ve got a quiet, peaceful colour palette perfect for every season. But what strikes you first in his new look-book, are the gold-polished socks which give the all of the outfits a edgy touch. This Antwerp-based guy keeps it close to his own, personal aesthetic and I love it (by the way, his models seem to be perfect for the overall atmosphere of the collection). More on ateliersolarshop.be and janjanvanessche.com

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Funagata bag by Kazumi Takigawa

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Walter Bosse hedgegog

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Jan-Jan Van Essche hat

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Hui-Hui silk scarf

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 Nickel bronze cutlery

Cherevichkiotvichki

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The impossible to pronounce CHEREVICHKIOTVICHKI (in Russian: Черевички от Bички ) stands for “a shoe by Victoria” in the old Slavic language, but said in a playful childish manner. The beautiful story of Cherevichkiotvichki begins in Lithuania where Victoria grew up surrounded by the remains of Soviet culture and the uprising of Baltic heritage. Born in the family of factory workers she grew up to be fascinated by the extinct utilitarian lifestyle and nurtured memories of her childhood past transforming them into series of everyday objects – shoes. This stunning self-taught shoemaker performs copious amounts of research empathizing traditional craftsman-ship between her London studio and the atelier in Italy. I am truly in love with this brand- the shoes feel so full of attitude, like if they had their own life! And the way the accessories are presented also feels unique.

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Vetements

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Demna Gvasalia, the alum of Maison Martin Margiela, presented his second season of Vetements, a new, eponymous label. And the collection he and his mates produced for their first-ever show made a solid case for spontaneous style. A game with volumes lenghts was the big thing. This elusive, slightly eerie mood of Margiela was also all around the clothes… here is my favourite look from the SS15 show. I don’t know why, but these sleeves and shoes and the non-chalant belt really hit me during the Parisian fashion week.