Proenza Schouler pre-opened New York Fashion Week. This was a smart move: the spring-summer 2025 collection would have a really hard time fighting for attention in the midst of all other shows and presentations that are coming up in New York this week. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough don’t play around with gimmicks, and they are in a continuous process of stripping down anything superfluous about their brand. But the problem is the minimalism they are pursuing for spring feels so generic and safe it could easily be a COS or Arket runway. The clothes looked good – especially the over-sized shirt-dresses and slouchy tailoring – but they were bare of feelings a high fashion brand like PS should spark. Also, I’m not sure who the Proenza Schouler woman is, especially when she’s wearing all these 2015-ish stripes and fringes.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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