Who would have ever thought that Diesel might be cool again? Like, really cool? Glenn Martens‘ first runway collection for the Italian denim brand is the best start of Milan Fashion Week you could imagine. The red catwalk was surrounded by inflatable, mega-sized dolls – a giant man and woman in sexy poses – which added an eerie, yet highly-Instagrammable ambiance to the presentation. Bizarre set aside, the latest Diesel collection was all about Y2k aesthetic with a futuristic twist. Logo mini-skirts, jumpsuits printed to appear like denim in trompe l’oeil style, and distressed jeans were unmistakably Diesel, very 2000s, but also super relevant in 2022. The more conceptual pieces – like the utilitarian jumpsuits and fleecy denim sweaters – were pure Martens as we know him from Y/Project. Beyond denim, the designer introduced chiffon and organza dresses, leather suits and shearling flight jackets, and a mystifying array of metallic coated knit dresses. Still, the timeless, over-sized denim trench was the ultimate show-stopper and will surely become an instant best-seller. Also, I really loved the use of body paint – very alien-chic. One model appeared in a bright shade of red that contrasted the icy blue of her denim top and jeans. The industry had high hopes for Martens’ take-over of the brand, which rather affiliated with shopping-mall fashion and a tired macho aesthetic. With his latest collection for the brand, Martens definitely doesn’t disappoint. It’s safe to say – we’re entering a new era of Diesel.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
My first day in New York, was mostly happening on Fifth Avenue and Soho. It all started in Women Bergdof Goodman were we have went through all the floors… At the beginning there is this big jewellery/bags hall that is really mind-blowing. I should say that Paris all Avenue Montaigne shops are nothing, comparing to the variety of labels and sizes on the 2,3,4th floors of BG. There is everything. Clothes of Givenchy in every size to the newest Louboutin’s high heels. After this “expedition” we went to men’s BG, but I was quite dissapointed… There were only those really expensive suites, Prada and Dolce&Gabanna. The next point of the walk on 5th Av. was the Gucci huge boutique and New York based Abercrombie and Fitch. I bought there like five things… We went also to Prada and to a great BG’s restaurant on 7th floor. That was so delicious… I ate an roasted chicken and seasonal asparagus soup. Then we had a small walk on Madison Avenue. We went to Reed Krakoff, Loro Piana, Tom Ford, Celine and Barney’s.
On the photo: BG Louboutin
The next part of our day we spent on Soho, where the first thing what we did was a visit to Marc Jacobs Loft boutique on Mercer Street. We saw the new fragrance Dot with the Kusama design. Then, Lena bought in Acne Studio on Greene Str. A beautiful red coat with fur at the top and white and black boots. We also met there a girl that worked in he shop, that is from NY, however her parents are from Greece and she lives in NoLiTa. We visited the shop of Isabel Marant on Broome Str, John Varvatos and Diesel on Spring Str. By the way I bought in Diesel an awesome parka jacket. And there was also a very mystery shop at thesame street called Revolution. They were selling there real skulls of racoons, skunks and rats and even of humans for 249$. You can buy there also some insects in jars, bones, dead rabbit with horns and other really disgusting things. But, we ended our day in an awesome restaurant called Mercer Kitchen on 99 Prince Str. We ate an grilled organic chicken, plat de mer, and roasted beef. One more time, DELICIOUS! That was a great day in New York!