Dion Lee

Sexy Utility. Dion Lee SS24

| Design & Culture by Ed

What I appreciate about Dion Lee‘s work is his consistency – a word that so many other New York Fashion Week designers should learn. His spring-summer 2024 is sexy and bold, and with wit. “This season was primarily about evolving the utility and construction language I’ve been playing with until now,” the designer said. What’s compelling about Lee as a designer is his ability to both fixate and expand on a specific theme while managing to keep his clothes distinctly true to his style. The Australian creative mentioned he started playing with power cords as a way to drape for his autumn offering, which carried over into this collection in the shape of shirring details by way of bungee cords. Particularly fun was a pair of trousers that had its back label replaced with an outlet; the model walked down the runway plugged in, carrying his coiled orange cord as a shoulder bag. Elsewhere, Lee laminated denim and introduced foiled leather for a sleek hint of texture. The latter was used in bubble-hem skirts and dresses, which added a welcome variation of shape. Also cool were his lace lingerie-like explorations; they felt freshest where they fell weightless around the body rather than constrict it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited

Motomami. Dion Lee SS23

| Design & Culture by Ed

The scene at the Dion Lee spring-summer 2023 was like a look book by the New York–based Australian designer come to life. In the space a lineup of influencers, models, and more stood around in full looks by the brand. All tall, slender, and muscular. All very cool. All, of course, very Dion Lee. The label’s offering usually teeters between day and night. Its knits and cargos feel both rave ready and casual enough to wear during the day, while its miniskirts, leather separates, and dresses feel dressed up enough for an evening out – perfect for a day-to-night-to-day lifestyle. But for spring Lee expanded on both ends of the spectrum. His very chic and well-cut tailoring and denim (in a just-right, grayed-out wash) offered a more dressed-up daywear assortment, while his floor-length slinky knit dresses and skirts and metallic fringe separates introduced a true evening selection. Backstage after the show, Lee pointed out that this season he honed his interest in patterns of anatomy. “I like to place things on the body in a way that relates to the structure of our form,” he said in reference to his cutouts and layering. This is something Lee does extremely well. He understands the human shape, particularly the muscular and slender type he prioritizes in casting, and knows precisely what areas of the body to uncover or enhance. His clothes are incredibly sexy; they’re alluring and exact, aggressive but curiously inviting. It would be interesting to see him build around other body types, as one often sees his clothes out in the city, and they tend to adapt well to different shapes. Lee also experimented with moto language over the summer (perhaps a nod to Rosalía’s Motomami – he outfitted her tour). These padded and more industrial fabrications worked surprisingly well with his recurring monstera leaf motif, which now bleeds past tops and dresses into footwear and handbags. He said he looked to establish a relationship between nature and what he sees in his daily city life. The designer also introduced a scuba capsule, the bodysuit of which wouldn’t look out of place in a club – it’s Dion Lee, after all.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited

All-Day. Dion Lee SS19

| Design & Culture by Ed

Who: Dion Lee

Where: From Australia to New York

What: Dion Lee’s netting is the designer’s signature and also a frequent evening-wear choice. But the label is more than that: it’s well-known for strong emphasis on construction, tailoring and experimentation. The designer creates a contemporary wardrobe, that’s blurring the boundaries between ‘feminine’ and ‘minimal’.

SS19: The spring-summer 2019 collection from Lee was a like a dissection of an all-day wardrobe. Distorted trench coats and pastel pink tailoring, which were a take on office-, work-, business-wear gradually switched to evening dresses with lace inserts, sensual cut-outs and playful sheerness. The few pieces in shiny blue and bold orange brought energy to the line-up, creating a smooth transition from the ‘day’ to the ‘night’. There were the easily approachable pieces, like biker shorts and pinstripe suiting ensembles. But for the more daring ones, there are the jacket-dress hybrids with zippers that had a beautiful, fluid-like quality (in a way reminding of Azzedine Alaïa’s mastership). What else felt like an absolute highlight? Of course Dion’s netting. This season it was reimagined thinner and lighter on two dresses and was made of 3-D printed latex. The effect? One word: stunning.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.