Cyber Luxury. Louis Vuitton SS16

October 13, 2015October 13, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Spring-summer 2016 season at Louis Vuitton is his best to date. Nicolas Ghesquiere really did show his refreshing stance at the maison – cyber luxury is the best term that reflects the mix of exclusive logo prints and pink-haired model wearing highly hype (whatever this means nowadays) clothes. Nicolas definitely had Japan on his mind this time – the Harajuku girls with manga-inpired robot tiaras and platform sandals make this collection sharp, but with a slight bit of kawaii flavour coming straightly from Tokyo. However, the collection had something more ethnical, too – note the lovely hand-stitched embroideries on suede biker jackets below. Or the feather details on mesh tank-tops and badass gloves. This how you do ethno, Valentino – keep it discreet, but appropriate. But what really hit me this time, is the amazing talent of fusing fashion history that the designer is known for – the Victorian blouses with leather vests and medieval inspired gowns have never, ever looked so modern as in Nicolas’ vision. These shirts, dresses, motorcycle leggings and, yes, jumpsuits (!) are highly in need. Also, I am drooling over these leather, pleated totes – the beauty of these accessories makes them conceptual objects, rather than just “bags”.

Ghesquiere, and his model casting director, Ashley Brokaw, have the most diverse set of girls during Paris Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton is a world-wide known brand, and it should be praised for having afro, bald, mullet and even pink-haired models (so Grimes, Nicolas’ muse and favourite musician of the moment!). Thanks to Nicolas Ghesquiere, Louis Vuitton became a label, that is more than clothes and a vast range of accessories – now, Louis Vuitton is an open-minded, lifestyle project. Bravo!

Every Woman. Rachel Comey SS16

September 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rachel Comey is a female fashion designer who designs for woman. It’s tempting to say, that she is Phoebe Philo of New York. Although her very wearable clothes are more affordable, her philosophy is very close to woman’s perfect wardrobe. And rather than having a classical model casting, the “models” of the show were diverse, different-age women. All of these “models” were dancers from the Robbins Childs company, with which Comey collaborated on a video presentation for Resort 2016. They were dresses in easy silhouettes, that suited their various sizes and shapes; slouchy cotton blazers, baggy dresses with flesh-exposing cuts, signature culottes and the wooden wedges were the highlights – however, the distressed denim won everybody’s heart. The mini-dress with a Corbusier-inspired pattern and high-waisted, over-sized pants will definitely sell first when they hit the stores in New York.

Coo-ee Couture. Romance Was Born SS15

April 19, 2015January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

A bit Meadham Kirchhoff, a bit Schiaparelli – the Aussie brand, Romance Was Born took us to a wonder-land of diversity and nature. But in their signature, splendour style. That’s why their collection for summer is called “Coo-ee Couture”. Fearless design duo Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales didn’t disappoint. The eye-catchy collection is the result of Romance Was Born’s collaboration with artist, fashion designer and fellow free spirit Linda Jackson, who hand-painted each garment for the show. The intense jewel-toned dresses, mixed prints – including a striking beaded “Waratah “design – bold texture and glossy black plummage were accessorised by bright ceramic jewellery from the Australian label, Dinosaur Designs. If people in Australia are so easy-going with coo-coo fashion, then I love it!

Grace Jones. Balmain AW15

March 7, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Olivier Rousteing’s heavy tribute to Grace Jones was visible at every point of his new collection for Balmain – the bold shapes of accessories, the vibrant patterns, the non-chalant cuts, capes and over-sized pantalons – I mean, EVERYTHING. Glamour, chic, sex – with a bit of cheesy accents – felt on the right place, like always at Balmain. A continuation on the eighties themes that we’ve seen developing successively for AW15 naturally was present. It was a collection that showed Rousteing doing what he does best: power dressing some of the world’s most recognisable faces and icons.