TBT: Dolce & Gabbana AW04

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Today, looking at a Dolce & Gabbana show hurts. The brand’s recent strategy to lure rich millenials through casting Instagram stars for their runway is, politely saying, ridiculous. Also, I don’t feel like writing much about Domenico and Stefano‘s pride in dressing America’s First Lady, or the latter’s drive for dramas and beefs on social media. But, even though it’s hard to believe it in 2017, Dolce & Gabbana used to do fashion. And really good fashion. Autumn-winter 2004 season is a great example of that. Inspired with Helmut Newton’s photographs and muses, the designer’s collection was about a hedonistic, ultra-chic, dramatic, yet powerful woman. Lots of sheerness, romantic lace, sassy fur, seductive satin – that was extremely Dee-Gee at the beginning of the millennium.  The models – from Stella Tennant and Mariacarla Boscono to Nadja Auermann and Karen Elson – killed the audience with their walks.

Men’s: The Bullfighters. Dolce & Gabbana SS15

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Oh my god, what a relief, Dolce & Gabbana boys! After seasons and seasons of Sicily filled collections that started to be seriously boring, we’ve got again something very hot and strong. The SS15 season meant Spain for Stefano and Domenico. The toreadors, flamenco, the Spanish domination of Sicily between 1516 and 1713, corrida… the main theme of the show was a bull. “Every woman wants one, every man wants one, too,” Stefano announced to great merriment after the show, before quickly issuing a correction: “Or wants to be one.” The bull appeared in a splash of blood or garlanded with carnations, because the other leitmotif was the color red. And that red was a real bloodbath (and mostly at the end, when the models wore the bloody suites!). In other words, the show was like a toreador fighting with the bull, which was printed on cool tank tops. But the collection had it’s soft side: the flamenco polka dots. I am really impressed with this great collection, and hopefully Dolce & Gabbana will make it as good for women in September!

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