Donna Karan

Donna, Calvin, Ralph. Alexander Wang SS20

| Design & Culture by Ed

I’ve been on fence with Alexander Wang lately – his fashion week schedule skipping and temporary identity crisis not only seemed to make him less visible (especially here in Europe), but also… less relevant. But something has sparked in his spring-summer 2020 collection he showed a few days ago in New York (three months ahead of all designers who are based in the city). It was really, really good. It was Alexander Wang we all loved years ago. It was badass, cool, energetic. And, smart. This season, the designer paid tribute to three designers who changed American fashion in the late 20th century, and whose aesthetical impect is still perceivable across the world. Donna Karan. Her stretch jersey bodysuits and big shoulders were the epitome of power dressing in the 1980s, and Wang included all of her signature codes in the opening looks. Calvin Klein. Denim, sex, but also minimalism – all these three couldn’t be missed by Wang, and he pulled them off just the right way. Ralph Lauren. The eternal flannel plaid, suede fringes, corduroy, ribbed knits and luxe cowboy look were all here. Those three designers not only reshaped American fashion, but also made their own take on athleisure go global. Most of today’s 30+ designers in the U.S. were growing up with those names, and Wang’s sporty sensibility is especially built on their foundation. Admitting this so loudly is more than excellent I think.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Women of AW16

| Design & Culture by Ed

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It’s not a secret that women with attitude inspire fashion, and the designers. This season, we had a range of different characters – from aristocratic femme fatale to a lady who travelled the world, the season of autumn-winter 2016 is definitely dedicated to the women, who made history. Or, at least, are the important chapters in fashion chronicles.

Marchesa Luisa Casati x Dries Van Noten

Aristocratic suits, piqué shirts, gold lamé shoes, leopard-spot pantalons and the radiating soigné manner surrounding the smoky-eyed women. It’s a story reviving Marchesa Luisa Casati, the woman with her iconic pet-cheetahs obsession and a memorable collection of pearl necklaces. The Belgian designer mused “she pushed decadence as a lifestyle, but was never happy” – indeed, the collection was shrounded in melancholic mystery. The masculine coats, celebrating Casati’s lover, Gabriele D’Annunzio, and white shirts tucked in tweed pants were all about Dries’ imaginary woman, who shares her man’s wardrobe and reads, maybe, books about existence. Decadence and Van Noten – a match made in heaven, making this season a highlight for the designer.

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Anne-France Dauthville x Chloé

With her favourite, laid-back signatures, Clare Waight Keller revived the spirit of a Frenchwoman, Anne-France Dauthville, who travelled across Europe and Middle East on her motorcycle in the 70s. One of the looks was basically a motocross combo of a jacket and a pair of pants, styled with off-duty biker boots. With ecru foulards tied around necks, the girls wore the best-selling, ruffled silk and lace dresses, while the opening look was a voluminous, travel-forward poncho. Watching Chloé’s AW16 collection, you felt like THIS girl is a truly carefree soul.

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Comme Des Garçons x Marie Antoinette

Although Rei Kawakubo isn’t a fan of mood-boards, her latest collection for Comme des Garçons was everything – punk, sexy, deviant and royal. The closing look worn by Anna Cleveland, so the pastel-pink, leather piece with exaggerated, ruffled sleeves was a defiant reconstruction of Marie Antoinette’s coat, in which she would surely have a cupcake, or two. Just like Maria Antonia Josepha Johanna von Habsburg-Lothringen, the Queen of France and Navarre, Kawakubo is against the flow.

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Celine x Donna Karan

Although Donna Karan closed her main line last year, and left DKNY for the Public School boys, her influence from the 80’s and 90’s felt distinct in Phoebe Philo‘s relaxed season at Celine. The flowing silhouettes and extremely wearable pieces are so effortless that every woman would love to wear Philo’s clothes nowadays. This was totally the same goal for Karan back in the days – she made her clothes so comfortable that they instantly became the second skin for her New York clients. Nearly invisible in wearing – timeless, seasonless and ageless. But not boring!

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Women, who’ve inspired the designers for autumn-winter 2016 season are (or were) all absolutely original in their lifestyle and way of being. Which one reflects you in fashion? Or, maybe you’re not identifying with any of them? Would love to hear your thoughts!