The new age has begun at Dries Van Noten under Julian Klausner‘s creative direction. One good thing: his debut menswear collection doesn’t feel as plain as the studio-designed womenswear we’ve seen back in September.

But his autumn-winter 2025 confusingly feels like a collection that could come from another Antwerp-originating brand: Maison Margiela (seen through John Galliano lens) or Ann Demeulemeester (black coat cinched at waist with thin string-belt and black feathers). The Willy Vanderperre-shot lookbook gives yet another Belgian designer’s distinct vibe: Raf Simons.

I hope that in the proper runway debut come March, Klausner will somehow show us what Dries Van Noten means without Dries. This outing doesn’t say much.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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