What’s Marni girl like according to Francesco Risso? She’s out of her mind. But in a positive sense, at least this season. It’s Risso’s second women’s runway show at the helm of this Italian brand and it finally builds some image of the designer’s creative direction. The inspiration for the collection came from “two English gardens seen by Tim Burton… with candies“, a nod to the cinematic adaptation of Willy Wonka and his crazy chocolate factory. So, just like in case of Roald Dahl’s original story, don’t expect anything rational from Marni this season, as it’s a fantastic play with literally everything, from the fluffiest bags to most rich and rare textiles like brocade or horsehair. The fur coats were joyously embellished with pink roses, while cocktail dresses torn apart and re-shaped around the body to look less glamorous and more clumsy. Floral prints collage-ed and patchworked with David Salle’s illustrations of smoking females; colourful rhinestone embroideries scattered haphazarly around gowns; earrings and necklaces were bent, becoming wearable sculptures. Looking oddly has always been a style-code at Marni, and Risso gets the point: he no longer terrifies people (see his debut collection…), but appeals with his woman’s spontaneous edge. That’s a candy nobody expected near the end of Milan fashion week, where things felt quite plain in taste.
Back in 2014, System Magazine asked Miuccia Prada to explain the differences between her main line and Miu Miu. According to the interview, designing at Miu Miu is much less complicated for Miuccia, whereas at Prada, it’s sometimes a struggle – the label is a synonym of ‘sophistication’, both for women’s and men’s fashion. Miu Miu’s soul is naive; spontaneous; immediate. For autumn-winter 2017, I didn’t get those three terms at Miu Miu. Edginess is definitely something that accompanied a Miu Miu girl throughout the years – but this season, it’s too much. Not that I don’t have a soft spot for purple faux-fur (especially when it’s used as a carpet) or fluffy hats. But I doubt that this overdose of 70s psychedelia and 30s technicolor does any good. Bold prints, over-sized collars, tiaras, geek boots: although all of them are Miu Miu signatures, this time they feel senseless combined together. In other words, the collection looks ridiculous. And surely incomparable to Prada collection (which was presented a few weeks ago in Milan), where the designer took us to another level of femininity.