What’s Marni girl like according to Francesco Risso? She’s out of her mind. But in a positive sense, at least this season. It’s Risso’s second women’s runway show at the helm of this Italian brand and it finally builds some image of the designer’s creative direction. The inspiration for the collection came from “two English gardens seen by Tim Burton… with candies“, a nod to the cinematic adaptation of Willy Wonka and his crazy chocolate factory. So, just like in case of Roald Dahl’s original story, don’t expect anything rational from Marni this season, as it’s a fantastic play with literally everything, from the fluffiest bags to most rich and rare textiles like brocade or horsehair. The fur coats were joyously embellished with pink roses, while cocktail dresses torn apart and re-shaped around the body to look less glamorous and more clumsy. Floral prints collage-ed and patchworked with David Salle’s illustrations of smoking females; colourful rhinestone embroideries scattered haphazarly around gowns; earrings and necklaces were bent, becoming wearable sculptures. Looking oddly has always been a style-code at Marni, and Risso gets the point: he no longer terrifies people (see his debut collection…), but appeals with his woman’s spontaneous edge. That’s a candy nobody expected near the end of Milan fashion week, where things felt quite plain in taste.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.