New Year Eve Tips. Rochas Pre-Fall 2016

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Even though these clothes will hit the stores only in June, Rochas delivered its pre-fall 2016 collection just in time before Christmas and New Year Eve fuss. Literally, this collection is a treasury of tips for a chic party outfit. Alessandro Dell’AcQua, who celebrates his second year at this heritage couture house, knows the codes of Rochas inside out – the meticulously embroidered silks, masterful Chantilly lace usage and the richness of textiles is not strange to him at all, but rather makes him feel like in his opulent fashion heaven. Also, Alessandro’s all-time favourite fashion trick for a slight granny-elegance update is here – socks worn with fancy pussy-bow pumps. This season, the fur game is strong for Rochas, too – the beautiful shades of blue, chestnut and burgundy made the variety of outerwear look more than fun. The non-chalance kept in the slouchy, fur stoles and the on-the-go idea of putting a slip-dress over a t-shirt will never disappoint or bore. And definitely not during a tasteful, New Year party.

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Serenity. Public School SS16

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At the beginning of Public School‘s career, I did not understand their phenomena. But throughout time and their development, I see what is the point behind it – Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne define casual elegance in a new way. And their SS16 collection is the best example of that – serene, long dresses worn with sporty tank-tops; ethereal, embroidered vests being contrasted by simple sweatpants New Yorkers love so much. Public School plays contrasts as no other. Layers are the key of their collections while the signature lazy Public School look is much more sophisticated than you might suspect. It needs years of practice to wear a pajama shirt with such grace!

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Peach & Fur. Jason Wu Resort’16

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Yum! Jason Wu presented a nutritious collection this morning, featuring the juicy colour of peach. Peach felt totally right this season, brightening up a bit the designer’s usual palette. Peach tuxedos, peach coats, peach furs. Right! Furs. For Resort. That’s a right move, Wu – when clients start to invest in Resort, it is still cold outside – and let’s be honest, nobody cares about swimming suits and summer dresses when it’s still winter. So, that is a very smart move from the brand’s side. Hopefully, this fresh (and very practical) idea will be continued by other designers…  Coming back to the clothes, the typical Jason Wu sleek mood was noticed, including tailored trousers and interesting jackets. Also, some delicate embroideries were seen, giving us a healthy dose of eveningwear in the collection.

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Still Flowers. Erdem Resort’16

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The clothes are all about florals as always in case of Erdem, but what caught my attention was the elusive, grey backdrop! These beautifully embroidered dresses and the models look so good, sinking in all that dark colour. It strongly makes me think of Dutch masters who placed their still lives on dark backrounds. But lets discuss the clothes. As its a Resort collection, so the most commercial season of the year, the dresses and coats were very neat and safe. The flower prints were indeed “still”, rather than vibrant and refreshing. Also, we could notice those lace elememts which brought a modest-princess vibe to the entire look-book. Maybe I didn’t feel much of spark in this collection, but I cannot say it was a boring one – it was simply very wearable and elegant.

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Guillaume’s Elegance. Nina Ricci AW15

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Many thought that Guillaume Henrry would bring youth to the old, musty house of Nina Ricci. But, in the result, Henry wasn’t even close to the word “modern”. The former Carven designer replaced Peter Copping in order to refresh Nina’s codes. But he didn’t bring the fresh air. But at the same time, he didn’t spoil his debutant collection – the first impression is pretty good, but nothing more unfortunately. Beautifully embroidered dresses with feathers; the killer Polish-model team, Magdalena Jasek, Maja Salamon and Ola Rudnicka, all appeared in the show as Henry’s muses – beige and pale khaki coats seemed to seduce just like the satin dress with bejewelled sleeve. The collection wasn’t kitsch nor minimal – it was a neutral combination of these two. Although the overall effect might not be a blast, I hope the next collection will feel more… precise?

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