For winter 2014, Mary Katrantzou had a total clean mind about her new collection. She exited her main focus and went greek- “Greek! It wasn’t supposed to be” she says. But there was something about this amazing embroidery which definitely underlined this collection from all others full of digital collections. The copper pastry cutters and all things she once put into her digitalized prints, there was, perhaps, a scent of her native country in this collection. Wherever the inspiration came from, pleats that were twisted and finished to different lengths were beautifully crafted. Katrantzou reached deep into her artistic soul.
Embroidery
HC: VALENTINO SS14
“Fifty-five looks for fifty-five operas. The Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were after something new for Couture this season, and they found it in the age-old tradition of opera. The show opened with a nod to La Traviata; Giuseppe Verdi’s score was embroidered in black on the long, full skirt of a parchment-colored tulle dress. By the end, they had called out all the greats: Puccini’s La Bohème inspired an elegant navy cashmere cape and silk crepe sheath. Bizet’sCarmen produced a pleated bronze tulle gown with silver-gray guipure lace embroideries”. And I loved the animals. Magnifique!
Masai. Givenchy SS14
Riccardo Tisci delivered this season something a bit more than prints. Just like the SS14 for men, the collection for women was strongly inspired with African and South American tribes of Masai, Aztecs and much more. Model wore jewelled masks, traditional, colourful jewellery and of course… Beautiful gowns made of silk and embroideries. What I loved about Givenchy’s SS14 for women, is that it wasn’t so trivial and a bit out of idea. Yes, there were some prints, but in closer look that was all made of sequins. The dresses and tops were too made with Haute Couture precission. The colours, forms… I don’t really imagine a woman wearing this on a party (note: there was no high heels in this collection!) but it’s still a great experience to see these clothes life. Riccardo Tisci, thanks God, came back to Earth, and again creates amazing collections!
Boom-Boom. Fausto Puglisi SS14
When Karolina Kurkova opens a show of a young designer, that means that a real talent is nurturing into something much more bigger… Fausto Puglisi, the designer of the moment from Milan, known for checked varsity jackets and gold ornamented skirts, this season had his first ever runway show. For SS14, Fausto not only showed his clothes have their own rock ‘n roll aestethics, but also are very feminine. We could see a Carolina Herrera mixed with Axel Rose in these amazing looks- a maxi blue dress with beautifully embroidered palms tapped with a leather biker jacket. Not only this collections had balls, but it looked real cool and great for Summer strolling somewhere at the Palm Springs… The fav designer of Coco Rocha, is now stealing the spotlight from a bit dusty Milan Fashion Week, but just ended today. Now we head to… Paris!
Abstract. Roksanda Ilincic SS14
SS14 for Roksanda Ilincic meant only one thing- art. This collection was really suprisingly good- all these yellow colours, geometrical patterns- just like if taken out of one of the Mondrian paintings! Roksnda again mixes volume in that superb collection with over-large jackets and flowless printed skirts. Surely, this was one of better things Roksanda did for few seasons- this was so refreshing and nice! All these colourful stripes and awesome embroideries are kind of new to Ilincic- after many seasons of same, boring dresses with over sized sleeves started to be a bit too monotone… But this time Roksanda Ilincic impressed me for Summer!
Design & Culture by Ed 