I’ve slept on most of Emilia Wickstead‘s career – majority of her collections felt too preppy, too controlled for me – but the autumn-winter 2021 line-up is quite something. This season, I feel like most brands and designer lean on styling too much, and in case of Wickstead, we see actual clothes, which are proof of excellent cut and tailoring. From the caped coats and suits to wonderfully refined eveningwear filled with couture-ish, lady-like silhouttes for day and evening, this is a regal, yet contemporary wardrobe for a modern-day dame. You know, that kind of Agatha Christie character, but living in social media times. And really, that woman doesn’t have a single pair of sweats on her racks. She will wear one of those shoulder-revealing dresses, in classy black or timeless florals, to a Zoom meeting (or a socially distanced five o’clock). I sense some Prada influences here and there, like the cut-out, pleated skirts especially, and that sort of elegant strictness, but those are equally signatures original to Wickstead.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Brits got that thing, that they like to bring monarchy and opulence to their brand. After last season’s pearly queens at Simone Rocha, we’ve got the colourful princes by Emilia Wickstead. Using modern technologies, the shee, over-sized gowns were presented in pale pink, light blue and toned black. Also, the oranges caught the eye- the classy ball dresses looked totally as for a queen. “I had this vision of a young girl getting dressed up for a night out, dancing in front of the mirror to someone like David Bowie or Bryan Ferry, and very excited at perhaps seeing her crush at the club that night.” So said Emilia Wickstead after her Spring show, summing up the spirit of her youthful collection.