This season, Erdem delivered one of his best collections… ever. It’s just felt breathtakingly beautiful without being frou-frou. There was an aristocratic, yet romantically decaying quality about it. And between the lines, a meaningful context that didn’t make the spring-summer 2025 collection feel heavy with history as it often happens with Erdem Moralioglu’s work. The title page of Radclyffe Hall’s “The Well of Loneliness” was printed on cavas and sewn as a badge of honor to the cuff of every suit – with a monocle pinned to each of the lapels. The novel was notoriously banned by the British government in 1928 for its portrayal of a female character called Stephen and her lover Mary. “Radclyffe was born Marguerite, and went by the name of John,” said Moralioglu. “What I was most interested in was how intensely she was masculine, and how feminine Una was.” Una, Lady Troubridge, who mostly wore pretty dresses, was reflected in the flapper-ish eveningwear bedazzling with chandelier crystals and fragile cotton. Trouser suits were an ode to Radclyffe. The collection resonated with the audience, and marked another great moment of this London Fashion Week.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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