ROUGH & ELEGANT 🦇 #DACBE: This is #PieterMulier‘s third season for #Alaïa. The Belgian designer has already proved that he understands the codes of #AzzedineAlaïa, and is capable to convey them to a contemporary audience with grace, sophistication and refinement. The #SS23 fashion show, which opened the haute couture week in #Paris, was, however, the designer’s most turbulent line-up. It seems that Mulier wanted to tackle far too many Alaïa themes and in the end, the collection read as overcharged and, well, messy. Of course, each garment put separate is a masterful work of artistry and tailoring – we are speaking of Monsieur Alaïa’s studio know-how – but the overall of the collection needed an edit. More on the JOURNAL 🌹 #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #Couture #HauteCouture #RianneVanRompaey #GraceJones #DACBECOLLECTIONS ❤️🩹 #collage by me, music: “Tia Tamera” by Doja Cat and Rico Nasty.
AND THE LIVING’S EASY 💛 #DACBE: #RosieAssoulin has you packed for the resort season. What’s in the luggage? The whimsical blue striped taffeta gown with awning-details will do the work in Hamptons. The collection’s hero piece, the transformable rainbow silk gown, is ready for a trip to sun-drenched Capri. Sweet polka-dots covered the red dress with a bustier bodice – this one can be easily pictured worn around Sevilla. Assoulin doesn’t do themes, she rather focuses on instincts and what feels right at the moment. In a troublesome world, a care-free wardrobe of summer-perfect clothes sparks joy. More on the JOURNAL 💐 #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #Resort2023 #JoyOfDressing #HelloHappiness #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌺 #collage by me, music: “Delirio De Grandeza” by Rosalía.
ESSENTIALISM 🌞 #DACBE: Essentialism has always coursed through the veins of #TheRow. This season, #AshleyOlsen and #MaryKateOlsen took it to sublime heights. Shot in the streets of Paris and presented in the Galerie Seguin, their #SS23 collection portrayed the daily lives of their customers and the way we adapt to changing scenarios throughout the day. Whether it’s different levels of formality – office hours, lunch dates, evening events – or the inside-vs.-outside temperature differences we all increasingly have to deal with in a climate change reality, the clothes we actually wear now have to imbued with certain functions and assets to actually work in our everyday lives. More on the JOURNAL 🐚 #OlsenTwins #OlsenStyle #WildBeach #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌾 #collage by me, music: “Leader of a New Regime” by Lorde.
LE PAPIER 🤍 #DACBE: What’s “Le Papier” like? Working with a brute hand and humble-yet-lovely materials, #Jacquemus was repositioning his brand and his look away from the Pop vibes of recent years and towards something more finessed. “I started working on the collection with the obsession to restart from nothing, like a white page,” he said. The first two things he filled his page with were ideas of comfort and couture; “every couture,” he elaborated, talking about fusing the security of a blanket or pillow with the easy drama of a pleated ball skirt or cocoon jacket. His wedding, set to take place in the South in two months, also influenced the scene: the show began with two models hugging and dancing. Shearling coats, puffer vests, flirty dresses, fluffy accessories and cargo pants are the #AW22 essentials, and here he had loosened up the shapes for a more serene spirit, adding his new Humara sneaker in collaboration with #Nike. More on the JOURNAL 🗒 #MicaArganaraz #WhiteDress #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖋 #collage by me.
WEAPON-WEAR 🔥 #DACBE: “Before, I would cut myself off from expressing in certain ways because I thought I shouldn’t do that,” #MowalolaOgunlesi said before her Paris debut. But the designer learned that “whatever feeds me, I should just do it.” What was feeding #Mowalola this season was thievery and evolving her aesthetic beyond the trenches, tees, and accessories she is known for. She titled her collection “Burglarwear,” inspired by all types of criminals, from kidnappers to stockbrokers to the priesthood. More on the JOURNAL 💥 #ParisFashionWeek #PFW #Paris #ArnoldBöcklin #DACBECOLLECTIONS ☄️ #collage by me.
FULL BLOOM 🌷 #DACBE: At #Dior, #KimJones does what he does best: combining contemporary elegance with art references, creating menswear that’s profound and desirable. #SS23 is about two houses, joined by a garden in full bloom: Christian Dior’s Granville in Normandy and Charleston in Sussex, where 20th century bohemian #BloomsburyGroup created and thrived. Owned by the artists #VanessaBell and #DuncanGrant, who pursued their free-love gender non-conforming lifestyle with guests in the isolated countryside away from London, it’s a place that became Jones’ favourite point of reference in the last years. More on the JOURNAL 🌾 #ParisFashionWeek #PFW #Paris #CharlestonFarmhouse #Menswear #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌸 #collage by me.
PARIS 🥐 #DACBE: For #SS23, #Ami went for the timeless, effortless and somewhat cliché, but always très cool theme: the Parisian chic. For the fashion show, the guests were at the top of #Paris, in the grounds of La basilique du Sacré-Cœur with the city laid out below, gleaming in the sunny dusk. Catherine Deneuve and Carla Bruni were in the audience alongside Naomi Campbell and Jonathan Bailey. Extraordinarily, #AudreyTautou – Sacré-Cœur’s Amelie herself – was lured out of her long public retreat to open the show. More on the JOURNAL 👄 #ParisianChic #AlexandreMattiussi #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🥖 #collage by me.
VIBE SHIFT 🍇 #DACBE: For #DriesVanNoten, the #SS23 menswear collection wasn’t just a bold return to the Parisian runway, but also an aesthetics shift. “The Zazous in Paris in the 1940s, and Buffalo in London in the 1980s. Both were in periods which were a bit similar. Hard times. So we wanted to make our own version of that.” In these, our disturbingly Right-swinging times, you could catch the significance of the timing behind Van Noten’s wanting to work a queer anti-authoritarian reference. More on the JOURNAL 🍷 #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #Menswear #Dandy #Burgundy #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🥀 #collage by me.
Design & Culture by Ed 