The 2010s: Karl and Chanel

CHANEL by KARL

Believe it or not – I can’t! – but we’re heading towards a new millenium. So, how do you choose the most important collections, designers and labels of the decade? The ones that made an actual impact in the 2010s? Well, it’s not an easy task. It all began in September 2009 with New York’s spring-summer 2010 shows and ended when the autumn-winter 2019 haute couture shows wrapped in Paris. Few thousands of shows, by the way. There will be 19 posts (that’s really the only possible minimum!) reminding about the best – and if not the best, then strongly influencing – moments in fashion.

Karl Lagerfeld & Chanel.

2019 saw the farewell to the visionnaire, the most prolific, joyous, assertive and energetic designer the world has known – Karl Lagerfeld. Although Lagerfeld worked on many projects simultaneously, from his namesake label to Fendi, it was his Chanel that always excited the most. This is the brand where he left his most expansive legacy. From the fantastic show venues (Chanel shopping centre, Chanel space-rocket, Chanel aquatic world, Chanel airport, the list seems to be endless) to Metiers d’Art locations (Edinburgh! Dallas! Salzburg! Moscow! New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art!) to the fashion campaigns (always photographed by him) to the label’s timeless, never boring, always consistent aesthetic (even if you haven’t been a fan, you should agree with this)… Karl owned Chanel. While the beat goes on with Virginie Viard, every show still feels as if something’s missing. A great loss. His soul is forever alive in the body of work he has left for generations to cherish.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Colmar A.G.E. x Shayne Oliver

The adventure of the designer Shayne Oliver as the guest designer of Colmar A.G.E. ends with the New York based designer and founder of Hood by Air, creating a very personal interpretation of the archives with an inspired collection, that is decidedly less extreme than the previous two. Consisting of a colour palette of black, flame red and electric blue paired with a hi-vis fabric, which is applied both as detailing and as the actual fabrication of the garments. The rubber patches which have been a signature of the designer’s A.G.E. collections are placed on sleeves and the back of pieces, ranging from jackets to trousers, sweatshirts and T-shirts in an underground mood. The a-gender collection references the needs of a style conscious public, with a nod to urban lifestyles.
Within the collection, jackets come in different cuts and lengths. An oversized parka is quilted with a hood, press studs and front zip. A bomber jacket comes with a stretch knit collar, waistband and sleeves, with a light down jacket appearing classic only to reveal that the piece is actually turned inside out, with the seams exposed. Salopette pants are lightweight with a small pocket on the front. A variety of soft fleece sweatshirts, in different silhouettes come with statement hi-vis pockets, with the T-shirts reimagined with the statement applied patch telling the story of the unique collaboration between the two worlds of history (Colmar) and visionary (Oliver). The 14 piece collection will be available from September 2019 through 11 leading stores globally, including Ssense, Luisaviaroma, jofre, Block 60.
For the campaign, Oliver enlisted photographer Jordan Hemingway, who has been responsible for capturing the previous two collections. London based artist Hemingway, has previously collaborated with Emporio Armani, Grace Wales Bonner, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli. For the campaign the designer and photographer street cast models, who they felt embodied the spirit of the collection.

Peter Lindbergh, Forever.

Extremely sad, sad news today: the great Peter Lindbergh passed away. Considered a pioneer in photography, he introduced a form of new realism by redefining the standards of beauty with timeless images. When I discovered the news today in the morning, I couldn’t believe it. Discovering his ouvre made me fall in love with fashion photography. The humanity and beauty he saw in people (whether the supermodels or artists or individuals who were dear to him or characters he met everyday) will live on through his work forever.

Catherine by Juergen

Here’s a gem from 2015. The one and only Catherine Deneuve (wearing Louis Vuitton only) photographed by the one and only Juergen Teller. This editorial never gets old.

Publication: Purple Magazine Issue 24 Photographer: Juergen Teller Styling: Vanessa Reid