It’s Fashion. Matty Bovan AW19

London fashion week has fashion, written with a capital letter. Basically it’s something New York fashion week rarely has anything to do with (even though this season wasn’t that bad, as we had bold Tomo Koizumi and Area). But back to London. Matty Bovan is the person who seems to be out of the serious, commercial fashion cycle. That’s why everybody loves him, from Love Magazine’s Katie Grand to Coach’s Stuart Vevers, who collaborates with Bovan on accessories. Matty’s autumn-winter 2019 collection was a fabulous madhouse. The garments felt like three-dimensional collages, even like assamblage art. The colourful knits were beautifully destructed, while the closing gowns were layered and layered with patches, tassels, leftover fabrics and who knows what else. It’s fun, bad in a good away, a middle finger to the established system of what a ready-to-wear collection should look (and be) like. It’s good to know somebody does it. It’s a very rare thing nowadays – sadly.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

She Had A Flower in Her Mouth. Marta Jakubowski AW19

Marta Jakubowski is a London-based designer who was born in Poland and raised in Germany. She graduated with MA Womenswear from the Royal College of Art London and was selected to showcase her collections during London Fashion Week as part of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative since. Marta Jakubowski has worked with brands including Hussein Chalayan, Alexander Wang and Jonathan Saunders, and has developed an unmistakable minimalist signature – sharp tailoring. She was shortlisted for the LVMH prize and Woolmark prize 2018 and continues to showcase her seasonal collections in London. Her minimalist, distinctive aesthetic envisions a mysterious woman, never obvious. Jakubowski’s autumn-winter 2019 highlights are: the deconstructed, masculine coat in brown and the equally dissected red knit that seems to connect with the person wearing it, like some sort of alien organism. Models  who walked the designer’s runway had an anthurium in their mouth, which you might read solely as a visual treat, or maybe, as a hidden message. In many cultures, this flower symbolizes hospitality. Does it relate to Marta’s collection in any way? Interpret it the way you really want to…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.